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> Sierra Eastside
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> Pine Creek Canyon
> Scheelite Canyo…
> Mustache Wall
The Toiler
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 23
votes
Routes in Mustache Wall
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[Redacted] S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blast Furnace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Caught Stealing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Charred S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Close Shave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crazy Course S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Call Me Fred(and remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double D ConFusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fire Bomb T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flamed Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Four steps ahead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fu Manchu S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gizzle Bomb T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High n Dry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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High Pressure System S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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It's Not The Wheat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Megaton S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Melodramatic S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Power Of Union S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rocktoberfest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Secret Stash right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Snidely Whiplash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Supermega S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Amigos S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tiddlywinks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Tai DeVore, Marty Lewis - 9/11 |
| Page Views: | 3,428 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on Apr 14, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A candidate for the best route on the Mustache. Three pitches of quality climbing.
P1: Start on Double Dog Dare. At the 11th bolt continue straight up instead of moving left. Good climbing in the seams with a reachy crux near the top. High quality pitch. 12a, 18 bolts.
P2: An immediate crux leads to an excellent pitch of grooves and patina. Again, good rock and good climbing. 11c, 13 bolts.
P3: More cracks/grooves but with a little less patina. A crux sequence from the hole at the end of the pitch takes one to a great belay station/ledge. 11c, 13 bolts.
Descent:
a) 3 rapps down the route.
or
b) With an 80m, go to the top of Supergrinder. There is only a few feet of rope left, knots advisable. The second rapp does not quite make the ground but deposits one on easily downclimbed terrain at the start of Supergrinder.
P1: Start on Double Dog Dare. At the 11th bolt continue straight up instead of moving left. Good climbing in the seams with a reachy crux near the top. High quality pitch. 12a, 18 bolts.
P2: An immediate crux leads to an excellent pitch of grooves and patina. Again, good rock and good climbing. 11c, 13 bolts.
P3: More cracks/grooves but with a little less patina. A crux sequence from the hole at the end of the pitch takes one to a great belay station/ledge. 11c, 13 bolts.
Descent:
a) 3 rapps down the route.
or
b) With an 80m, go to the top of Supergrinder. There is only a few feet of rope left, knots advisable. The second rapp does not quite make the ground but deposits one on easily downclimbed terrain at the start of Supergrinder.
Photos
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