Type: Sport, 200 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel, Jeff Scheuerell, Marty Lewis (Sept 2018)
Page Views: 215 total · 29/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Sep 9, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This can be viewed as an extension, an added second pitch, or an overrun at Cuss Terr's Last Stand.  It more than doubles the length of Cuss Terr's. Doing the entire thing in a single pitch is outstanding.  It takes a nice line on the right edge of the upper face and seems to go on forever.  About the same technically as Cuss Terr's, with consistent and difficult enough climbing to hold attention - all the way to the end.  Like stacking two Cuss Terr's on each other with additional 11- thrown in.

Estimated 200' as Cuss Terr's is given 90'.  Somewhere in that range.

Another option: Start on Becky's, go to the obvious spot where one can move across onto the arete of the left wall of the chimney, finally joining at the bolt just above Cuss Terr's anchor.  A few less bolts this way as well as a couple of feet shorter.  Runners helpful.

A typical comment when watching someone high on the pitch: "Man, they are way up there."  

A nice long pitch.

Location

Start on Cuss Terr's Last Stand, or alternately, start on Becky's.

Protection

Bolts. Something like 24, depending on start taken, back cleaning, etc. A few full length runners helpful. Ends at mussies.

Can not lower back to the ground with one rope (obvious based on route length.) If starting on Becky's an 80m can make it back to the original Cuss Terr's anchor (a foot or two of rope left - careful!!) but Cuss Terr's isn't comfortable and the lower Cuss Terr's start may not even reach. Not sure about a 70m but likely options are Coven or Becky's (most comfortable.) Or two ropes, or belay on top (small ledge) and two raps via any combo. Many options, just be heads up. Please be considerate of parties on the other routes (or using up another anchor) when choosing a descent.

Photos

MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
Nice! You guys are killing it on the extensions there! Oct 14, 2018