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California
> Eastern Sierra
> Bishop Area
> Pine Creek Canyon
> Scheelite Canyo…
> Mustache Wall
Crazy Course
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 9
votes
Routes in Mustache Wall
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Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blast Furnace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Caught Stealing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Charred (Flame Thrower Variation) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Close Shave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crazy Course S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Call Me Fred(and remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double D ConFusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fire Bomb T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flamed Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Four steps ahead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fu Manchu S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gizzle Bomb T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High n Dry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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High Pressure System S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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It's Not The Wheat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Megaton S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Melodramatic S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oktoberfest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Power Of Union S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Psycho Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rocktoberfest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Secret Stash right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Snidely Whiplash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Supermega S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Amigos S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tiddlywinks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Darrell Hensel, Jeff Scheuerell, Marty Lewis (Sept 2018) |
| Page Views: | 1,550 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on Sep 9, 2018 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This can be viewed as an extension, an added second pitch, or an overrun at Cuss Terr's Last Stand. It more than doubles the length of Cuss Terr's. Doing the entire thing in a single pitch is outstanding. It takes a nice line on the right edge of the upper face and seems to go on forever. About the same technically as Cuss Terr's, with consistent and difficult enough climbing to hold attention - all the way to the end. Like stacking two Cuss Terr's on each other with additional 11- thrown in.
Estimated 200' as Cuss Terr's is given 90'. Somewhere in that range.
Another option: Start on Becky's, go to the obvious spot where one can move across onto the arete of the left wall of the chimney, finally joining at the bolt just above Cuss Terr's anchor. A few less bolts this way as well as a couple of feet shorter. Runners helpful.
A typical comment when watching someone high on the pitch: "Man, they are way up there."
A nice long pitch.
Estimated 200' as Cuss Terr's is given 90'. Somewhere in that range.
Another option: Start on Becky's, go to the obvious spot where one can move across onto the arete of the left wall of the chimney, finally joining at the bolt just above Cuss Terr's anchor. A few less bolts this way as well as a couple of feet shorter. Runners helpful.
A typical comment when watching someone high on the pitch: "Man, they are way up there."
A nice long pitch.
Protection
Bolts. Something like 24, depending on start taken, back cleaning, etc. A few full length runners helpful. Ends at mussies.
Can not lower back to the ground with one rope (obvious based on route length.) If starting on Becky's an 80m can make it back to the original Cuss Terr's anchor (a foot or two of rope left - careful!!) but Cuss Terr's isn't comfortable and the lower Cuss Terr's start may not even reach. Not sure about a 70m but likely options are Coven or Becky's (most comfortable.) Or two ropes, or belay on top (small ledge) and two raps via any combo. Many options, just be heads up. Please be considerate of parties on the other routes (or using up another anchor) when choosing a descent.
Can not lower back to the ground with one rope (obvious based on route length.) If starting on Becky's an 80m can make it back to the original Cuss Terr's anchor (a foot or two of rope left - careful!!) but Cuss Terr's isn't comfortable and the lower Cuss Terr's start may not even reach. Not sure about a 70m but likely options are Coven or Becky's (most comfortable.) Or two ropes, or belay on top (small ledge) and two raps via any combo. Many options, just be heads up. Please be considerate of parties on the other routes (or using up another anchor) when choosing a descent.
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