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Routes in Mustache Wall

Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blast Furnace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Bomb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fu Manchu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Not The Wheat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Of Union S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Stash right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 1,061 total, 24/month
Shared By: Patrick O'Donnell on Apr 28, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start immediately right of B-Gizzle on some face holds. Clip 2 bolts on the start of the face. Move into a steep layback crack and clip the 3rd bolt. Game-on from here. Move into the crack as it transitions back to the right. Go for it doing a sporty move to clip the 4th bolt or optionally place finger size gear to protect the move. Clip 4th bolt and stay focused for a burly awkward layback crack move that requires footwork and balance. Stand up and place a blue TCU/green alien and do a final easy move to gain the ledge and anchor of B-Gizzle. clip a bolt and long sling on anchor of B-Gizzle.

Move above B-Gizzle anchor and clip a high bolt. move into a steep layback crack crux and clip another bolt (7th and last bolt). Gain a stance and place a piece of gear. Continue placing gear (up to 2") up a steep 10+ crack finish just left of "Flame Thrower". Lower off.

Location

Right of B-Gizzle. Left of Flamethrower. Could be considered an alternate start of B-Gizzle with a new extension.

Protection

Mixed. 7 bolts plus gear to 2". Mostly small gear.

Photos

Consensus seems to be 12a on this one. Sep 7, 2014
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
  5.12a
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
  5.12a
Thanks for your work in putting this one up Patrick, as well as others in the canyon. I think the crux sequence on this route felt harder than anything of a similar grade on the wall. An orange Metolius TCU fits perfectly in the pod between the third and fourth bolt. Middle of the route 5.11 crux is really cool and balancy, with super fun cracks to the anchor. Classic! Sep 5, 2014
Really fun route and clean. Others that have climbed it seem to like it. Great addition and low hanging fruit. Can't believe no one has done this route before. Apr 28, 2014