Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Calder, Marty Lewis, 8/2006
Page Views: 1,124 total · 12/month
Shared By: slim on Jul 12, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Climb the first pitch of 'Supergrinder' and belay at the bolts (or link into Sidecar).

From the anchor bolts climb straight up into a slightly flared offset/dihedral tight finger crack. Just a little bit tricky/insecure for a moment. Continue upwards as the crack gets a little bit wider (bigger fingers with a few tight hands), with a deeper flare. This is more straight forward, but maybe a little more blue collar. Bolted anchor at the top.

The bishop guidebook gives this 10c, but we thought it was closer to 10a. Well protected and fine position up on the wall. Very worth doing!

Location

This route is pretty much directly above the first pitch of 'Supergrinder'. You can't miss it - it is a nice looking crack.

Protection

Small TCU's to maybe hand-sized cams. A few stoppers, several runners. Nothing too big.

Photos

Laine Christman
Reno, NV
5.10+
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
5.10+
I would disagree with slim on this one. Definitely not 10a, more like 10+. For me - moving into the flare required some techy foot jams while lie backing the left side of the flare. Jul 16, 2013
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c
needs more traffic to get rid of the cobwebs... Jul 17, 2017
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
I thought this thing was bloody burly! It is sustained, tight hands/fingers in a flaring corner to a insecure crack-mantly thing. It's hard to get in balance to place gear. The gear is very good, but you need to be thoughtful about placing it because of the flare.. Bring lots of small cams from the purple/green C3 up to #0.5 camalot. The first 40-50' of climbing is all 0.2-0.6" crack. You could probably place as many blue and yellow mastercams (or green/red/yellow c3s) as you could carry. Above the mantle, it backs off a bit but still maintains your attention. Great route, but expect to battle! May 12, 2018
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
I agree with Andy's comments.

Very good route. Offset finger cams are useful on this one, bring them if you've got them. Jun 2, 2018