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Routes in Mustache Wall

Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blast Furnace S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Bomb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fu Manchu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Not The Wheat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Of Union S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remington Electric, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Stash right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Calder, Marty Lewis, 8/2006
Page Views: 938 total · 11/month
Shared By: slim on Jul 12, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the first pitch of 'Supergrinder' and belay at the bolts (or link into Sidecar).

From the anchor bolts climb straight up into a slightly flared offset/dihedral tight finger crack. Just a little bit tricky/insecure for a moment. Continue upwards as the crack gets a little bit wider (bigger fingers with a few tight hands), with a deeper flare. This is more straight forward, but maybe a little more blue collar. Bolted anchor at the top.

The bishop guidebook gives this 10c, but we thought it was closer to 10a. Well protected and fine position up on the wall. Very worth doing!

Location

This route is pretty much directly above the first pitch of 'Supergrinder'. You can't miss it - it is a nice looking crack.

Protection

Small TCU's to maybe hand-sized cams. A few stoppers, several runners. Nothing too big.

Photos

Laine Christman
Reno, NV
5.10+
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
5.10+
I would disagree with slim on this one. Definitely not 10a, more like 10+. For me - moving into the flare required some techy foot jams while lie backing the left side of the flare. Jul 16, 2013
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c
needs more traffic to get rid of the cobwebs... Jul 17, 2017

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