Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Darrell Hensel, Marty Lewis
Page Views: 118 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Sep 21, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Here is a fun one for those who like longer pitches or just want something new (mostly) on the awesome Mustache Wall. Also, a great one for those lugging around that 80m or longer rope. With rope stretch it works out perfectly with an 80m  if you unclip from the draws on the way down, then swing right to higher ground. Of course, you want to tie a nice fat knot in the end of the rope but you all do this anyway right? For shorter ropes, you can lower to your choice of lower anchors.

While technically (for me) the hardest move on the route is down lower, getting to the 4th bolt on Remington, many will find the moves getting to the last bolt a challenge. A wise climber will pay close attention to rope drag throughout the pitch. A few shoulder length runners and back-cleaning here and there can make the difference on that final clip.

Stay Dry!

Location

The route begins left of Remington Electric and right of Not the Wheat. Follow bolts that lead up to and join Remington Electric at its 4th bolt. Continue up Remington Electric to the anchor of  Not the Wheat. Above Not the Wheat follow several more bolts to an exciting finish ending at Mussys.  

Protection

20 draws a few of which are shoulder length to cut down on rope drag.

Photos

MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
What has 7 arms and sucks? ;^) Sep 24, 2018