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Routes in Mustache Wall

Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blast Furnace S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crazy Course S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double D ConFusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Bomb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fu Manchu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gizzle Bomb T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High n Dry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Not The Wheat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Of Union S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Stash right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Tony Sartin and Terri Condon (June 27, 2009)
Page Views: 1,820 total · 20/month
Shared By: terri condon on Mar 10, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb is rich with variety. The first 4 bolts climb up and left thru a beautiful black patina on crisp edges. From here cross a wide crack and head straight up on large holds thru a ramp system to a thin face crux under an overhang. Above the overhang easy but run-out climbing leads up and right to a bolt on the right edge of the large alcove. From here climb up and slightly left past 2 more bolts to the anchor.

Location

This climb begins 15' left of The Notorious B.E.G. It is a rope stretcher with a 60m. Please tie a knot in the end.

Protection

13 bolts to a two-bolt mussy hook anchor

Photos

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Rick Ziegler  
 
Great addition to the Mustache Wall! Jul 10, 2011
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Great route! Belayers watch out, top of climb is still cleaning up. Jul 19, 2011
Vlad S
  5.11c
Vlad S  
  5.11c
I counted 10 bolts. Sep 3, 2013
Tony Sartin
  5.11c
Tony Sartin  
  5.11c
That's a shame Vlad. You missed some great climbing at the top of this route. After you pull the crux roof section, climb up and right (a little run) to a bolt on the right edge of the large scooped feature. Then continue up and slightly left a few more bolts to an anchor at 32 meters. I'm pretty sure that you climbed up and left a few feet after the roof and clipped the obvious "Not The Wheat" anchor. I'll explain this in the route description to alleviate future confusion.

Side note: I've lowered off this route multiple times with a 60 meter rope and it always just makes it with rope stretch. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope. Sep 3, 2013
Vlad S
  5.11c
Vlad S  
  5.11c
Tony, you are completely right. I climbed left after the roof. Thanks! What's the scoop on "not the wheat"? Sep 5, 2013
Tony Sartin
  5.11c
Tony Sartin  
  5.11c
Not the Wheat is IMHO one of the finest routes on the wall. A Brian Ketron creation along with the help of Tai Devore and Trevor Hobbs if I'm not mistaken. It went up and instantly made the cover of Climbing magazine a few years back. Trevor being the cover boy of course. It has a strange, fat, under driven buttonhead bolt right before the anchor. Originally, I was told that it was 11d, but some people have since claimed 11c. I personally would give it solid 11d/ easy 12a myself. Excellent regardless. Sep 6, 2013
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11b
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11b
The obvious hold at the roof has broken off maybe making that move a bit harder if not just different but overall grade no harder. Jun 30, 2017
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Stellar! Candidate for best 11c on the wall for sure.

One of the cruxes features some of the sharper crimps on the whole wall as you move leftward, so I'd recommend doing this one when your fingertips are ready for a bit of abuse. Jul 24, 2017

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