Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Mary and Tai Devore
Page Views: 620 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bruce Willey on Jun 29, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
  5.10c/d
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
  5.10c/d
This is a great climb! Considering the moderate technical difficulty I give it 4 stars.

It's a little tedious to get up to the start but it's worth the trouble. The start ledge is a very nice place removed from the hussle and bussle of the main wall. The climbing is sustained and interesting - beautiful rock with classic holds! Lots of good jams too. I think if this route was located mid-wall it would be the most popular in the canyon.

Be sure you start on the right line - the start of Mr. Ridiculous is just left of this climb on a lower ledge. Jul 25, 2011
Ken H
Granite, UT
 
Ken H   Granite, UT
 
If you are not solid at the grade you can take some gear about thin fingers to hands (maybe green, yellow, red aliens and green and red C4) but the bolts are all there. About the second to last bolt is hidden from view until you are close enough to clip it. Jun 6, 2012
Jeff Witt  
 
Superfun climbing and well protected. Didn't find it as cruxy as Supergrinder, but perhaps more sustained with proper use of the crack. Excellent for the grade! Jun 11, 2012
Gotta agree with Randy in Ridgecrest, if this route was more easily accessed it would be one of the most popular routes in the canyon. In a way though it is quite nice that it is where it is. At least this way one can enjoy one of the best routes on the wall and get away from the maddening Mustache crowds as well. (Plus, it's a good way to set up a TR on Slippery Slope if you're into TR'ing - just clip the GT anchor, one more bolt, and then the SS anchor.) Sep 4, 2013
Phil Esra  
 
Maybe 35 meters; definitely not 35 feet.

Really, really good. Quite easy if you use hand and foot jams. Still pretty reasonable even carefully eliminating all back-of-hand and top-of-foot contact. A bit more strenuous using only the right lip of the crack and the features to the right. Fun to play around with on TR--so many features to work with! Apr 21, 2015
Short Fall Sean
Flagstaff, AZ
Short Fall Sean   Flagstaff, AZ
"Hey kid, you left your bolts on my awkward jam crack!!"

"Hey old timer, your flaring crack is in the way of my radical sport route!!"

(In unison) "Hey, wait a minute, this is delicious!!"

Fun route, worth schlepping up to the far end of the mustache to get on it. Apr 21, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Great route and was happy to have read Ken H's comment. Having a .3-.75 camalot made the route very well protected. May 5, 2016
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
Super fun climb, really solid at 5.10 and the bolts are further apart than they look from below. A bit of extra finger to hand sized pieces would probably make someone pushing their limit feel better.

If you have a 70m, tie a knot in the end and lower your partner to the ledges below Supergrinder, you can just make it if you climb up a bit. Then you can down climb without a rope or other stuff dangling off you. Jun 6, 2016
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c
whatever happened to route descriptions, bolt counts, length, etc. Jul 1, 2017