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Caught Stealing
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Mustache Wall
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Air Toil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Aromatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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B-Gizzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Becky Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blast Furnace S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boldly Departed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Caught Stealing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Charred (Flame Thrower Variation) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Close Shave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Coven (Seriously Though) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crazy Course S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cuss Terr's Last Stand S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dakota Street Bypass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Call Me Fred(and remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double D ConFusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Dog Dare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fire Bomb T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Flame Thrower S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flamed Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Four steps ahead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fu Manchu S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gala Tumble S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gimpenator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gizzle Bomb T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grindulator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High n Dry S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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High Pressure System S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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It's Not The Wheat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Megaplex, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Megaton S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Melodramatic S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mr. Ridiculous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mustache Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Notorious B.E.G., The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oktoberfest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Phenomena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Power Of Union S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Psycho Sexy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Psycho Variation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Remington Electric, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rocktoberfest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Secret Stash left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Secret Stash right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shattered Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sidecar T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slippery Slope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Snidely Whiplash S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stone Cold Fusion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supergrinder S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Supermega S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Amigos S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tiddlywinks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toiler, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Window Shopper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Darrell Hensel, Jeff Scheuerell, Marty Lewis; 2021 |
| Page Views: | 638 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on Nov 21, 2021 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
A long link up pitch that combines most of the good climbing on Close Shave, Window Shopper, Shattered Glass, and Supergrinder. Long curving pitch, watch the rope run.
Do all but the last bolt of Close Shave, move to the cabled draw at the overlap on Window Shopper, do the remainder of WS into the crux of Shattered Glass, then finish on the patina of the second pitch of Supergrinder.
A single 80m will not get you down (barely makes it back to the cabled WS draw.) However, there are several options available to descend on a single rope (even a 70m) from the Supergrinder P2 anchor.
Alternative finish: instead of moving into the patina at the height of the Supergrinder P2 crux, reverse that sequence by going right and then down climbing a few moves to the Supergrinder P1 anchor (the first bolt of Supergrinder P2 protects the follower nicely.) This simplifies everything with a pitch that reaches the ground using a single rope.
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