Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Tony Sartin 09/2012
Page Views: 1,092 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tony Sartin on Nov 12, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Diagonal up and left for four bolts to a bulge and then straight up for three more bolts to a stance in the wide, right slanting crack. Clip a bolt out left and do a powerful move left (crux) to unite the two faces. Another bolt leads to a chain draw under a roof. Pull the intimidating yet easy roof where 7 more bolts lead up and then slightly right to a two bolt lower off.

Location

Start 8 feet right of Psycho Sexy under a fat button head bolt. 35 meter lower off

Protection

17 bolts, 10th bolt has a fixed steel draw. Double steel biner lower off.

Photos

Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
  5.11c
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
  5.11c
Great route! Thanks for putting it up. May 21, 2013
Jeff Scheuerell  
5.11d
A bit chossier than most routes on the wall, may clean with time, but the climbing is good. I hope nothing large breaks off and takes out a belayer. Also felt harder than any of the other 11bs on the wall. Aug 25, 2013
Choncho
 
Choncho  
 
Good addition and not a give-away 11c. Well worth it. Jul 19, 2016
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
  5.11c
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
  5.11c
BOOOO! Who changed out the chain draw under the roof for the rigid, suck shack, homemade swage cable draw? I'm guessing because of rope drag? Climbed this route many times, Its one of my favorites on the wall and I've never thought the chain draw caused any issues. The new cable draw was too long and got tangled up around my harness while clipping the bolt over the roof. I think I'll clip my own extendo draw next time. Still one of the coolest routes on the wall, and is getting cleaner. Aug 7, 2016
Jeff Scheuerell  
5.11d
Ya, that thing sucks! Also belayers beware! Aug 7, 2016
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
  5.11c
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
  5.11c
What!? Pffft! What do you mean Jeff'e? Belayers beware of the awesome spectacle of your partner hanging one arm off jugs at the lip of the roof more like... Aug 8, 2016
Vlad S
  5.11d
Vlad S  
  5.11d
"and is getting cleaner"

That's great news! In a few more years it will actually be enjoyable (-; Aug 8, 2016
Rick Ziegler
Bishop, CA
  5.11c
Rick Ziegler   Bishop, CA
  5.11c
Did this again today. Harder, cleanier and more sustained than I remember. So good. May 23, 2017
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
  5.11d
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
  5.11d
Great route! Steep climbing on the first half, technical and cryptic later on, endurance to the chains. Deserves the 11d rating, particularly as an on-site grade. It’s pretty clean (and chalked up) by now! May 25, 2018