Description

The first wall on your left when you enter the canyon. The wall was almost entirely the work of Kevin Calder and Marty Lewis. All the routes are excellent, with several spectacular lines such as 'Phenomena', 'Coven', and 'Flame Thrower' to name a few.

Getting There

After parking, walk up the road into the mouth of the canyon.

38 Total Climbs

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Location: Mustache Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mustache Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 59
Gimpenator
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 158
Becky Route
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 64
Supergrinder
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 101
B-Gizzle
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 46
Window Shopper
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 105
Coven (Seriously Though)
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 41
Cuss Terr's Last Stand
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 49
Boldly Departed
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 91
Flame Thrower
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 36
The Megaplex
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 32
Double Dog Dare
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 32
The Remington Electric
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 50
Notorious B.E.G., The
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
It's Not The Wheat
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 30
Stone Cold Fusion
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gimpenator
 59
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Becky Route
 158
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Supergrinder
 64
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
B-Gizzle
 101
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Window Shopper
 46
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Coven (Seriously Though)
 105
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Cuss Terr's Last Stand
 41
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Boldly Departed
 49
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flame Thrower
 91
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Megaplex
 36
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
Double Dog Dare
 32
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Remington Electric
 32
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Notorious B.E.G., The
 50
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
It's Not The Wheat
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Stone Cold Fusion
 30
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mustache Wall »

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So densely packed with classic routes--glorious! Notorious BEG is to the left of Coven--they are out of order in the MP list. May 27, 2014
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
This is seriously the best 5.11/5.12 granite sport wall I've ever been to. There is also just enough 5.10s to get warmed up if you're focusing on 5.11.

If you climb those grades, you can stay busy for a solid week without even moving to the closely-adjacent walls in the canyon, as long as the weather is comfortable in the shade (e.g. summer or warmer fall days). Jul 24, 2017