Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tony Sartin and Terri Condon (July 5, 2009)
Page Views: 1,775 total · 18/month
Shared By: terri condon on Mar 10, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

This route S-curves up the wall passing thru three separate overhangs to a bold and committing move onto an exposed arete. Delicate climbing on the arete leads to larger holds and the anchor above.

Location

Begins 12' to the right of The Becky Route

Protection

13 bolts with a 2-bolt mussy hook anchor. Lower off with a 60m.

Photos

Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
  5.11b/c
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
  5.11b/c
Great new climb, the name says it all! Cruxes are technical, the climbing pretty sustained, and it's long. The arete move high up is a mind bender! Crux difficulty may be somewhat height dependent. Because the hard moves are technical and improbable I think the redpoint rating is 11b and the onsight maybe a tick harder. Jul 4, 2011
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
Will probably be harder for shorter people. I think a key hold has broken at the arete move which makes the climb a little more dynamic. Overall, the holds are a little awkward in spots, but still well worth doing. Aug 15, 2011
Tommy L-D  
 
Beta = Dyno!! Sep 19, 2011
Phil Esra  
 
Fun, sustained climbing on sometimes dodgy rock. There's a creaky optional undercling/sidepull, in line with the start of the route, that's going to let go sooner or later--heads up belayers. Aug 4, 2014