| Type: | Trad, 2000 ft (606 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9629, -105.287 |
| FA: | NA |
| Page Views: | 792 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Eppers on Oct 3, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Details
Is similar to Return of the Dow, but stays significantly lower on the face.
Conditions: the rock condition is mostly solid, but I did have one nub pop off under my foot somewhere close to the summit which was alarming. I was cautious about rock quality during the downclimbs, and lichen is almost nonexistent on the main face.
Starting: to optimize your distance start climbing under a tree where the trail kisses the face of The Slab also the start of the Diagonal route.
Variation: it is slightly more straightforward and easier to start at the dihedral used for the start of Bulges. Either way, go up 20 to 50 feet and if starting on the far right don’t go above 50 feel until meeting the line for Bulges. From this interaction, angle up and left for about 30-50 feet, and frequently look to your left. You should be able to make out a seam running horizontally across the rock (not too much higher than where you are) which leads to a tree. Get up to and follow this seam until a bulge at the small tree. You’ll find you are not actually very far off the deck, and you will see a “passageway” leading up into a depressed area in the face. Make your way up through the passageway. About 40 feet above the transition into the passageway, work left to find the downclimbs. There is a major dihedral going up the face, which is why this route does not go straight across. These downclimbs look much scarier at first sight, so be patient, and figure out the easiest path. There are 2 sections of downclimbing which might go at 5.4-6ish? The second works nicely dropping the left foot for each step and left hand sidepulling / underclinging. After downclimbing, head left and up a bit ideally to the raspberry bush next to a keyhole. From here, climb straight up… finally up. There are about 3 short, vertical, face climbs on the main line with the final one being the summit. Don’t forget to take in the view while considering the fact that you just climbed half a mile.
Decent: downclimb west off the summit (quite secure feeling). Then head north staying closer to the rock, and pick up a trail. The trail should lead past the backside climbing section and down through a talus field. While heading North, bias a little west in the talus field, so you can meet up with the main trail without dropping into the gully.
Here's the Strava record:



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