5.2 YDS 3 French 8 Ewbanks II UIAA 8 ZA D 2c British R
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|Shared By:||George Bell on Apr 10, 2002|
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This is one of the longest routes near Boulder, especially if you go all the way to the summit of the Slab. However, much of it is 3rd or 4th Class.
Begin at the far right side of the slab. This is the only place where the approach trail passes within a few feet of the base of The Slab. A few hundred feet up you can see a wild wing-like flake jutting out over the northeast arete.
The route goes up the the east face, staying within 100' of the northeast arete. Near the wing-like flake, the easiest option is to follow a ramp left until you can get over a steep section. It is also possible to climb closer to the arete, or even go under the wing-like flake (5.5).
Once you reach the ridge crest between the east and west faces, the climbing becomes much easier. Follow this crest for quite a distance (many pitches if roped). You will pass a gnarled tree marking the end of the routes "Left 'N Up" and "Syzygy". Beyond this follow a narrow arete past a troublesome tree, and make a scary step down while hanging off great holds on the crest. Right after this, look for the downclimb to the west, look for a wild flake sticking out that you lower over and step onto (despite appearances, the flake is quite solid). Alternatively, follow the ramp south of the flake for ~150 feet. The ridge has an obvious weakness to down climb on the west side. The tree that at one time was useful is long gone.
The summit actually lies many pitches farther. If you wish to reach it, follow the ridge until it ends in hiking terrain (however, The Slab itself is a continuous piece or rock below and east of you). Hike up and left, and get into a weird gully that diagonals left below a headwall. Climb through this headwall with a short 5.0 move, then wander up to the thumb-like summit. This summit can be reached either from the east (exposed 5.2) or west (4th Class), and has a great view of the Devil's Thumb and Sphinx to the south. This summit is higher than The Goose.