Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Rui Ferreira, Paul Glover
Page Views: 2,118 total · 16/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the undercut climb on the red/brown panel right of Undertow, up on the ledge along the west face of the Slab. It begins with a hard boulder problem (***stick clip*** the first bolt or pre-rig while lowering off Undertow) and then climbs though a series of bulges on crimps, huecos, and pockets. The angle eases high, then you finish on crimps just right of an aesthetic groove to jugs and the anchors. The rock through the middle is a cool, hard-patina'ed (almost Dakota) sandstone, like you'd find on Mount Sanitas.

You can stay right though the final bulge on the face (and you'll probably go to the handlebar to rest), but the moves are more fun on the left. You can also climb past the first bolt of Undertow then rail right to the second bolt on Sweet Niblets to make a nice 12a "warm-up": NibbleToe. A long runner or double draw on the seventh bolt will help with any rope drag.

Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, the Flatirons FHRC, the Access Fund, Open Space and Mountain Parks, and OSMP ranger Rick Hatfield for helping keep climbing and new-routing alive and healthy in the Flatirons. Thanks again to Paul G for helping schlep the ropes, hardware, etc. up the hill, and to Rui for being part of sorting out the Beta and the clips.

Location

This is 10 feet right of Undertow, finishing 25 feet right.

Protection

Nine bolts plus bolted anchors. Bring a stick clip for the first bolt.

Photos

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