Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Paul Glover (bolted by Matt Samet)
Page Views: 2,092 total · 23/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 8, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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53 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the current rightmost route on the west face of the Slab, up on the Undertow ledge. It climbs the black, bulging wall with a big, crispy flake at the start and an overhanging groove up high, to anchors over the lip.

Head up and right along the ledge from Undertow and stand tall to clip the first bolt ***before*** you pull onto the flake (the flake is very thin along the bottom). Move up to the flake top and into the crux. I've seen some chalk heading off right, but beware: that is loose choss and a better sequence is the one on the left. Cop a rest at the break and then finish past two more bolts on cool flutings (5.10).

This is a good, thuggy warm-up for other routes at the Slab.

Location

This is fifteen feet right of Sweet Niblitz.

Protection

Five bolts to double-bolt anchors.

Photos

Ben Sachs  
 
This thing is cleaning up well. As far as steep 5.10 sport rigs around Boulder go, this one is pretty cool! Longish draws on basically all bolts except 1st help with the clips and rope drag, especially if this is your limit or you are short. Apr 24, 2012
This route is actually named Cockopotamus after Hank Caylor's enormous rig. We had to sanitize the name to get it past the city. Just thought you all might like to know. And yes, this route is terrible, 0 stars at best, but it's the only worthwhile warm-up on the wall. Jun 24, 2012
Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.11a
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.11a
I think this is a good and worthwhile route! Agree with Matt, thuggy warm-up, which is nice to prep for other routes on the cliff. The crux felt like either clipping the second bolt, or perhaps moving up past the second bolt to the good high hold with the left. Doesn't seem to get any easier after repeated ascents.... Aug 27, 2015
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.11a
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.11a
Today I did this route along with the 11 to the right and the first pitch of Prime the Pump, and it was probably the hardest of the three! Very interesting climbing, definitely not 5.10. May 12, 2017
Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Japhy Dhungana   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Beta from Paul: helps to lower from the 5th draw after hitting the topout jugs. Then the last person can rap the route from the steel carabiners at the chains. Helps by not having your rope go over a nasty edge and saves wear and tear. Sep 14, 2017