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Routes in The Slab

$00pr kr33m S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Boys with Power Toys S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bulges T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Diagonal T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Family Man S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Film Noir S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hippopotamus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Junior Niblits V7 7A+
Just Another Boy's Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Keyhole, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kr33m in the $33m TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left 'N Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Nasty Boys S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Northeast Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pen 15 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime the Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime the Pump (Pitch 1) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return of Dow, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Shalohsh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sick For Sleeping S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sump Pump S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet NiBLitz S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Syzygy T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Trad kr33m T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undertow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up and Right T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Whipped Cream S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whipping Post S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
k00kEEz and krEEm S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
m1n1-kr33m TR V5 6C
s00kr33m S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: R Rossiter & Lynn Householder, 1977
Page Views: 1,343 total, 7/month
Shared By: Rog on Jun 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Finding this route is pretty easy. Follow the directions to the Slab, then hike to the far right edge. As you look up, you'll see the 'wing-like flake' almost 400' up. The route generally follows the right side of the rock up to & past this bizarre formation. As with most Flatiron routes, there are many variations possible. For the most part pro is scarce, be creative.

P1: From the base, look for a large blocky rock jutting out of the Flatiron about 175' up and maybe 60' from the right edge. Picking your best route, aim for this area. The start seemed the 'hardest' maybe 5.4 friction. After about 40' the rock becomes more featured.

P2: Aim for the base of the 'wing-flake'. You'll cross over the gully that is the first portion of Diagonal (or at least I think it is). For some added excitement, at this gully traverse right towards the very edge. There is a cool but short crack (maybe 5.6 - easier options are available) that provides good pro & a couple fun moves. If you do this beware of rope drag. There is a small ledge just below the wing-flake that provides an adequate belay at about 175'. Note: From below it's hard to tell you're right at the base of the weird flake.

P3: Rossiter's guide says to go 'under' the wing & back to the arete, I pulled straight up to pass it on climber's left. Follow easy climbing to the end of the rope & belay.

P4: A short pitch - a cool and easy (4th class?) ramp that leads to the summit ridge. Quite a few belay options.

At this point you've got several descent options (see the route Diagonal for the full scoop). For the quickest descent, look about 75' from the (climber's) right edge of the summit for a 2 bolt anchor / rap station. One bolt is a spinner, and there is a small mess of webbing, but it works. 100' rap.

Note that this route shares quite a bit of ground with 'Diagonal' - also described in this database.

Protection

Standard Flatirons rack. I brought a set of nuts, #1, 2, and 3 Camalots, a couple small cams & long runners. 60m rope recommended, esp if you plan on rapping off.

Photos

Merlin
Grand Junction
  5.5 R
Merlin   Grand Junction
  5.5 R
I second the very run out comment. If you start right up the slabby stuff expect 100 feet of 5.4 to 5.5 runout. After that, the climbing eases and the pro increases. The finger crack is also 5.7 even if it is only for 20 or so feet. Oct 1, 2006
James Garnett
Bellingham, WA
  5.5
James Garnett   Bellingham, WA
  5.5
Fun climb, but with some provisos. First, the first pitch is very run out. I got in one good piece, and that one was almost all the way to the first belay (maybe 20'-30' shy of it). I would say that warrants an "s" rating. A question on that first pitch, too: it is clearly the hardest thing on the route unless you do the 5.6 variant---so how is it a 5.5 climb if the crux is 5.4?

Second, there are two large blocky rocks jutting out that could act as the first belay; the first one is nice, comfortable, but only slightly past 30 meters up from our start at the high point of the north side. The second, which is definitely right at the end of a 60 meter rope, is a nasty belay for which I had no decent pro other than slinging a horn., and which is just plain uncomfortable. If you want to climb all the way up to it, you should bring the #5 Camalot (but I'd recommend doing it because it makes the next belay up easier).

Third, the rappel is shorter: about 20' of our 60 meter rope was on the ground at the base when nobody was weighting the line. We were concerned about a 100' rappel with a 60 meter rope and tied rappel knots in the end, but it ended up being unnecessary.

Finally, the rap bolts themselves are right on the edge of the summit ridge, at the base of a wall leading up to the summit. The "75' from the right edge of the summit" really got me confused; just keeping heading up and looking over the edge and you'll see them.

Now, whining aside, this was indeed a fun climb. Excellent slabby goodness on the first pitch! I'm only giving it one star, because it's not spectacular and I wouldn't go back unless my partner really wanted to do it; there's closer-in slabby goodness in the Flatirons that is more appealing.

First pitch is very run out. 5.5s. Sep 5, 2003
Super fun, climbing out on top of the wing was really fun. The crack adds spice to a great paddle. Aug 1, 2002