Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: R Rossiter & Lynn Householder, 1977
Page Views: 1,540 total · 7/month
Shared By: Rog on Jun 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Finding this route is pretty easy. Follow the directions to the Slab, then hike to the far right edge. As you look up, you'll see the 'wing-like flake' almost 400' up. The route generally follows the right side of the rock up to & past this bizarre formation. As with most Flatiron routes, there are many variations possible. For the most part pro is scarce, be creative.

P1: From the base, look for a large blocky rock jutting out of the Flatiron about 175' up and maybe 60' from the right edge. Picking your best route, aim for this area. The start seemed the 'hardest' maybe 5.4 friction. After about 40' the rock becomes more featured.

P2: Aim for the base of the 'wing-flake'. You'll cross over the gully that is the first portion of Diagonal (or at least I think it is). For some added excitement, at this gully traverse right towards the very edge. There is a cool but short crack (maybe 5.6 - easier options are available) that provides good pro & a couple fun moves. If you do this beware of rope drag. There is a small ledge just below the wing-flake that provides an adequate belay at about 175'. Note: From below it's hard to tell you're right at the base of the weird flake.

P3: Rossiter's guide says to go 'under' the wing & back to the arete, I pulled straight up to pass it on climber's left. Follow easy climbing to the end of the rope & belay.

P4: A short pitch - a cool and easy (4th class?) ramp that leads to the summit ridge. Quite a few belay options.

At this point you've got several descent options (see the route Diagonal for the full scoop). For the quickest descent, look about 75' from the (climber's) right edge of the summit for a 2 bolt anchor / rap station. One bolt is a spinner, and there is a small mess of webbing, but it works. 100' rap.

Note that this route shares quite a bit of ground with 'Diagonal' - also described in this database.

Protection

Standard Flatirons rack. I brought a set of nuts, #1, 2, and 3 Camalots, a couple small cams & long runners. 60m rope recommended, esp if you plan on rapping off.

Photos