Avg: 3.5 from 24 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Chris Beh, Erik Fedor. FFA: Pinklebear|
|Page Views:||3,584 total · 76/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Beh on Nov 22, 2017|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The Hunger starts out with a 12b/c boulder problem right off the ledge. Due to the possibility of decking in a fall here, it is best to set up a gear belay on a decent stance underneath the route, left the Undertow belay, especially, if you are just beginning to work the route. I suppose if you were making redpoint attempts after you have the bottom moves wired, you could belay on the ground like S00per Kr33m. There is no low bolt like the other routes, so you would NEED a cam. A bomber, yellow and red Camalot work nicely for the belay (a sling or rope bag to manage the rope is convenient).
Starting pre-clipped to the third bolt makes sense. To clip the third bolt on lead would require climbing past it to the good hold and reach back to clip. If the ledge at the bottom wasn't so close, this would be a non-issue.
OK, to begin climb the initial moves past the first three bolts to a good flake and a shake. The first crux involves a very long move to a hidden crimp over the top of the bulge (this big move might be slightly harder or at least lower percentage than the upper crux).
A powerful move up into the undercling feature quickly leads to another bucket and good shake. The second crux is also V7ish and about 4 moves to a really good left hand bucket for the clip and one more big 12a move to get established over the lip and another good shake. Two more bolts of hard 11 climbing take you to the anchor.
If you are wondering why the 4th and 5th bolts are so close together, I put the 4th in while drilling my way down the route. Once we began to work it, we realized we needed a higher bolt to protect (and dog) the vicious first crux. Ideally, it would be one really BIG bolt, since most people will be hanging there a lot, but I only had a shorter one available, so I kept the other as a backup. If a single bolt here failed, it would be a groundfall.