Type: Trad, 500 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,406 total · 13/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on May 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start this route just to the right of the large left-facing dihedral (Left 'N Up). Wander through some bulges for the first half of the face. Some of these involve what felt like balancy moves for the 5.0 grade it's given in the guidebook. The upper half of the face is much more featured and therefore much easier. The route finishes at a notch with a different tree than described for all the other easy routes on the website. A 2-bolt anchor is just under this tree -- the rap is approx. 90-95 feet. A 50m rope will not get you all the way down (probably to a ledge though -- where you could scramble off).

Protection

Sparse. Per Joe Castellano: there are chains at the top of Whipping Post now.

Photos

Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
5.1
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
5.1
P1 is runout with no pro. Made an anchor at a large rock with cracks visible from the ground. P2 went up to a bulge with a slot in it that took one cam. Over that is a huge ledge with a tree next to it. The ledge is large enough for several cars. P3 - From there I went up to a juniper tree and made a sling anchor. P4 follows a large crack that takes big cams ending up at a seat with cracks for a gear anchor. P5 is basically a walk over the bulge to the summit ridge.

The rappel from the 2-bolt anchor for the sport route at the North end of the ridge is actually more like 80 ft., so a 50 meter rope would just barely get you down. A 60 m rope will leave you a pile of extra on the ground. There are no quicklinks or chains on the bolts as of 5-9-07. Apr 18, 2004
Rick Casey
Fort Collins, CO
Rick Casey   Fort Collins, CO
Did this 8/31/2014. The first place I could find protection was about 120' up, about 30' below the obvious overhang with a tree on top. I found that Lowe Tricams worked pretty well in several spots. Beyond here, there is much more protection, and the climbing is easier -- but watch out for that first pitch! Sep 1, 2014
Joe Castellano
Boulder
Joe Castellano   Boulder
There are chains at the top of Whipping Post now. Jun 15, 2017