Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Beh, Owen Silver
Page Views: 1,483 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris Beh on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Trad kr33m climbs the corner/crack system above the start of Whipping Post. The first 30 feet are fun, overhanging, juggy moves and the crux of the route. Once you can start stemming, the climbing backs off to an enjoyable 5.7 to the top. The most strenuous part of this route is hanging around to back up the fixed pin. BACK IT UP!

No one I've talked to seems to know the history of the pin on this route. It looks so old that it likely predates the sport climbing on this crag. Who knows?

It's great the route goes on reasonable natural gear and uses an existing anchor for a convenient lower. This route makes another welcome warm up for the cliff and easy way to get a top rope on Whipping Post or to hang the draws.

Pull onto the starting jugs and clip the first bolt of Whipping Post. Move up to the pin and place a small cam (blue Alien)to back up the pin. Pull the crux move, and you'll be able to place a bomber #3 Camalot just above in an obvious slot. Follow the corner to the top. Step left on the ledge and then up to the chains.

I used almost an entire set of cams on this pitch from a blue Alien to a blue Camalot plus a few small wired nuts. Your basic, light, Eldo rack.

Location

This shares the start of the sport route Whipping Post.

Protection

Single set of wired nuts and cams 1/4" to 3.5"

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