Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Chris Beh, Erik Fedor, Anders Fridberg
Page Views: 3,383 total · 29/month
Shared By: Chris Beh on May 31, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Shalohsh (means the number 3 in Hebrew) is the next route left of Family Man.

Climb a slab, 5.9, past 2 bolts to an overhang. A few fun 5.11 moves past 3 bolts lead to a small ledge. Step right to a one inch crack, place a piece or two before the next bolt, 5.7.

The upper section is the crux and the hardest moves are at the very top. Jug up right on the flake to its top. The climbing kicks in for the last 3 bolts. The holds are mostly big slopers, which makes the climb nicely not crimpy - for The Slab.

This route isn't sustained, but it's got a variety of fun moves on good rock. The crux of this climb might be harder for me than the cruxes of the other 12a/b routes on this wall, but it's short - I'll call it 12a until a consensus grade settles out. The business requires a lot of body tension with bad feet, while matching hands on, clipping from, and then moving off, a big, slopey sidepull.

Protection

9 bolts plus a piece of 1 inch gear or two for the middle and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Chris Beh
  5.12a
Chris Beh  
  5.12a
Kristin Bjornsen, thanks for all the belaying on my project. This route wouldn't be ready, yet, for other climbers, without your help. Erik Fedor got it first when we had a top rope on it last year. Pat Adams climbed it on tr to vet my bolt locations. He called it 12a (sandbag alert!) Thanks for the feedback, Pat.

I put the bolts in 5/30/09 and redpointed it, too. Jun 1, 2009
Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO
 
Brett Merlin   Boulder, CO
 
Bring a #0.4 Camalot, also pulled off some blocks down low. Be careful as this route is still "breaking in". Jul 25, 2010
This route is super cool and fun...but I'm a little confused, too. I love the variety of climbing this route offers: thin face, steep overhang, crimps, slopers, crack, laybacks, etc. It's a long route on beautifully colored rock in the shade. It's also well-protected with the small exception of the crack area which is easily protected with a #2 cam and then maybe a #0.5 cam higher.

Now to my confusion...the first crux is going over the steep section around bolt 4...maybe 5.11. Then after the good rest and the crack, it becomes pretty sustained to the chains for about 25 feet. Moving through the sidepulls and mini-dihedrals with bad feet is challenging, maybe 5.11+. By the time you pull through the last traverse to the left, undercling, and then work up the bad slopey rail, you are pretty pumped when you have to make the hardest move on the whole route...a big move up left off the slopey rail with terrible feet to a high left flake...about four feet to the left of the chains. At that point, it definitely feels harder than 5.12a to me. The question I have is whether you need to make the move to that jug or do people just move from the black slopey rail and grab the chains? Or do they make that crazy move up left to the juggy flake? If so, is it still 5.12a? May 29, 2017
Chris Beh
  5.12a
Chris Beh  
  5.12a
climberboy228 Romano, hard left at the last bolt is the easier beta and calling it 12b instead of 12a is not an unreasonable. Climbing straight to the chains is much harder. I never got that and have not heard from anyone that they did the straight up way. It would be surprising if no one has actually done the harder variation considering the talent that frequents the crag. I would be interested in hearing about it from whoever might have sent the direct. May 30, 2017
IMHO "12a" is a sandbag. Sep 18, 2017
Curt Chesney
Boulder, CO
 
Curt Chesney   Boulder, CO
 
Going direct at last bolt felt 12b/c to me. Jul 25, 2018
R Sather
COLORADO
 
R Sather   COLORADO
 
I have been up to the slab about 5 to 10 times now, and I had always kinda disregarded this route. After finally getting on it, I have to say I think it's a really fun and high quality route. My partner and I decided to climb it direct by compressing with the left hand on blocky jugs and sidepulls and using the rail out right to squeeze upwards. I felt like it clocked in at about five-twelve.

On a side note: thanks again, Chris, for all the hard work you have put in to your routes at The Slab. Every route that I have tried has been enjoyable! Jul 27, 2018