Avg: 2.7 from 90 votes
|Type:||Sport, 75 ft (23 m)|
|FA:||Chris Beh, Erik Fedor, Anders Fridberg|
|Page Views:||4,730 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Beh on May 31, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Climb a slab, 5.9, past 2 bolts to an overhang. A few fun 5.11 moves past 3 bolts lead to a small ledge. Step right to a one inch crack, place a piece or two before the next bolt, 5.7.
The upper section is the crux and the hardest moves are at the very top. Jug up right on the flake to its top. The climbing kicks in for the last 3 bolts. The holds are mostly big slopers, which makes the climb nicely not crimpy - for The Slab.
This route isn't sustained, but it's got a variety of fun moves on good rock. The crux of this climb might be harder for me than the cruxes of the other 12a/b routes on this wall, but it's short - I'll call it 12a until a consensus grade settles out. The business requires a lot of body tension with bad feet, while matching hands on, clipping from, and then moving off, a big, slopey sidepull.