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Routes in The Slab

$00pr kr33m S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Boys with Power Toys S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bulges T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Diagonal T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Family Man S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Film Noir S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hippopotamus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Junior Niblits V7 7A+
Just Another Boy's Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Keyhole, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kr33m in the $33m TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left 'N Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Nasty Boys S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Northeast Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pen 15 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime the Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime the Pump (Pitch 1) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return of Dow, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Shalohsh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sick For Sleeping S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sump Pump S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet NiBLitz S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Syzygy T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Trad kr33m T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undertow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up and Right T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Whipped Cream S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whipping Post S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
k00kEEz and krEEm S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
m1n1-kr33m TR V5 6C
s00kr33m S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Gary Neptune?
Page Views: 717 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1: (5.5, 200') Start up at the left end of a sloping bulge, 20' off of the ground. Climb up to the bulge with no protection on a moderate slab, then step left and back right on reasonably good holds to pass by the bulge. Continue up and left on a slab and crack for 200' to reach a belay, perhaps 10 meters below a large and broken roof. The rock above this point is terribly rotten.

P2: (5.8, R, 200) work right or down and right to a left-facing corner that arches left to be continuous with the roof. Place a piece of gear behind some flakes and gingerly step up and right a few times (crux) to pull though towards a shelf visible on the right side. Place a piece of gear and continue up and left to below the keyhole, then through it on its right side. A good stance is available on a massive chockstone, but I didn't like the concept of belaying on it. Continue up and left, then left and up... running it out for some way to reach solid easy climbing to the end of the rope. ledges and huecos abound after a hundred feet or more. Belay on your choice of ledges or butt-bucket heucos.

P3: (5.1, 130') Climb up and right from the belay, heading right from under a large steep tower near the top of the rock and around to the right side of a right-facing corner. This pitch will take you to the ridge at the top of the Slab to a point VERY near the normal downclimb.

Location

Head uphill and South at the base of the Slab from the bottom of Syzygy (a large, left-facing dihedral just past the end of the rocky drainage/trail) for perhaps another 150 meters. You will arrive at a second left-facing dihedral. Back track 20 meters to below a huge roof with a notch in it that in size and shape resembles the Keyhole on Long's Peak, though this one is through the roof 250' up the slab, rather than being horizontal on the ridge of Long's. You are now at the base of the climb.

Protection

A standard light rack. Taking more will not help much where the runouts are. Crossing the roof above P1 and the ensuing run through the keyhole are significantly runout, and the rock through the roof potentially loose and dangerous. Pick your path wisely.

Photos

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RyanSender  
 
I thought this was kind of a fun route. No one was around, and the quality was only bad on the 2nd pitch, pulling the crux. Otherwise, it is a typical slab fest with a few fun moves through the key hole. It is an adventure. Oct 19, 2016