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Routes in The Slab

$00pr kr33m S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Boys with Power Toys S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bulges T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Diagonal T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Family Man S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Film Noir S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hippopotamus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Junior Niblits V7 7A+
Just Another Boy's Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Keyhole, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kr33m in the $33m TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left 'N Up T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Nasty Boys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Northeast Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Pen 15 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime the Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prime the Pump (Pitch 1) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return of Dow, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Shalohsh S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sick For Sleeping S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sump Pump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sweet NiBLitz S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Syzygy T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Trad kr33m T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undertow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Up and Right T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Whipped Cream S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whipping Post S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
k00kEEz and krEEm S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
m1n1-kr33m TR V5 6C
s00kr33m S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Fred Knapp, Lynn Hill 9-29-09
Page Views: 2,128 total · 20/month
Shared By: Fred Knapp on Sep 29, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a route I began bolting 20 years ago. Before I could finish it, the OSMP banned bolting. When Chris Beh bolted a line to the right, it was obvious that I could use his finish. Nasty Boys traverses right from Just Another Boy's Climb at about the third bolt. It's a continuous line with a few mini-cruxes and a big pump. Some long runners carefully placed can be useful for rope drag. I'd also recommend reaching down and unclipping the first bolt above the belay on Boy's Climb after you've clipped the second. It's a little run to the second bolt on the traverse (but I fell from there on my first burn and it is totally safe). With a long runner on this bolt, you could clip it before making the hard moves. All in all a super airy, pumpy route.

Maybe I should rename the route for the 2000s. I named it for a song in the late '80s.

Location

The Slab. Begins up Boy's Climb and makes a traverse to the right before heading up.

Protection

Maybe 15 QDs including the anchor.

Photos

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Pinklebear  
 
Aiiieeee, this climb: so nasteeeeee! Great stuff.

Longs slings help in places as does unclipping a draw in one or two spots once you're into a higher one. Be ready to pimp down as you launch into the traverse -- which begins from the third/fourth bolt on pitch two of Boy's Climb. Best to clean on toprope due to its diagonalling nature. Jun 18, 2011
I assume this involves clipping the old "nasty" cold shut? It looked rusted and cracked when I was up there, pretty sketch. I doubt people will ever do this with the current hardware situation. It does look kinda cool. Aug 5, 2013
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.12c
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.12c
This route is actually really good, one of the more sustained routes on the wall. The bolts are a little spacy, and some of the rock is friable. The climbing is sustained and airy and lets you do the classic upper half of Film Noir (great for those of us who cant make the crux reach on that route). Rope management is tricky to say the least especially if trying it as one pitch. Despite the drawbacks, the climbing is excellent and highly recommended. Apr 18, 2018

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