Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Fred Knapp, Lynn Hill 9-29-09
Page Views: 2,356 total · 20/month
Shared By: Fred Knapp on Sep 29, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a route I began bolting 20 years ago. Before I could finish it, the OSMP banned bolting. When Chris Beh bolted a line to the right, it was obvious that I could use his finish. Nasty Boys traverses right from Just Another Boy's Climb at about the third bolt. It's a continuous line with a few mini-cruxes and a big pump. Some long runners carefully placed can be useful for rope drag. I'd also recommend reaching down and unclipping the first bolt above the belay on Boy's Climb after you've clipped the second. It's a little run to the second bolt on the traverse (but I fell from there on my first burn and it is totally safe). With a long runner on this bolt, you could clip it before making the hard moves. All in all a super airy, pumpy route.

Maybe I should rename the route for the 2000s. I named it for a song in the late '80s.

Location

The Slab. Begins up Boy's Climb and makes a traverse to the right before heading up.

Protection

Maybe 15 QDs including the anchor.

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