Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Chris Beh |
Page Views: | 7,023 total · 85/month |
Shared By: | Chris Beh on Jun 17, 2017 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Whipped Cream can be climbed from the ground using the same staging area and initial scramble as for Sooper Kr33m. Use a double length sling on the low first bolt to reduce rope drag. Or you can set up a belay with a red and a gold Camalot at a good stance below it on the Undertow ledge. I used the ledge belay when I sent the route. There is less rope drag at the crux, but it isn't that much of a difference climbing from the ground...if you have the double sling for the first bolt.
The route begins with a few 5.10 moves to a short 5.12 crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Body tension and techy foot beta are key. Thuggy climbing on mostly big holds leads to a big jug rest at the 7th bolt. You can cycle here as long as you want before heading up into the business.
Progressively harder moves lead to a definitive crux move and redpoint crux at the 10th bolt. The money move is a BIG dead point to a half pad, positive edge. It is 5.10 and one more bolt to the top after the crux move.
The small hold to complete the crux is hard to see without a tick mark on it. I had to keep marking it after rain washed it off even after numerous burns.
The route begins with a few 5.10 moves to a short 5.12 crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts. Body tension and techy foot beta are key. Thuggy climbing on mostly big holds leads to a big jug rest at the 7th bolt. You can cycle here as long as you want before heading up into the business.
Progressively harder moves lead to a definitive crux move and redpoint crux at the 10th bolt. The money move is a BIG dead point to a half pad, positive edge. It is 5.10 and one more bolt to the top after the crux move.
The small hold to complete the crux is hard to see without a tick mark on it. I had to keep marking it after rain washed it off even after numerous burns.
8 Comments