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Routes in Eagle Falls
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Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Big Donger, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Call Ya Motha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cracked T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Lunch T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eagle Falls | 5382 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Go to Bread S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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LM T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Prey Tell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Queer Eye for the Straight Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Random Rope T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Reverse Kill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Waiting line, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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We Want No Loss Nor Gain of Life T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| GPS: | 43.9051, -75.1959 |
| FA: | Kristen Fiore 8/14/17 |
| Page Views: | 1,652 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Kristen Fiore on Aug 14, 2017 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kristen Fiore, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
An adventure-style sport route that tackles the biggest roof at Eagle Falls. The most exposure and wildest position I've gotten out of a single pitch in the Adirondacks. The first half is a bit chossy but the upper half is bullet. The position of the second half makes up for the crappy rock quality in the first half.
Begin up a loose start to reach the first bolt. Delicately climb through a small runout to a fixed draw. Continue up powerful climbing to a loose block before traversing right to a left-facing corner. OK, the scary climbing is done! Up the corner and make a technical traverse right to fire the roof with gymnastic moves. Finally, work left on crimps and power straight up to a ring-bolt anchor on 5.8 terrain.
Be diligent about using alpine draws and be weary of loose rock for the first several bolts. Treat this climb like a trad climb and watch for rope drag around the roof. Several fixed draws make bailing (especially at the crux) easy to do without losing gear and make lowering easier.
Named after the mythical lake monster who lurks in nearby Beaver Lake.
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