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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Call Ya Motha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prey Tell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore 8/14/17
Page Views: 335 total · 24/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Aug 14, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore

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Description

An adventure-style sport route that tackles the biggest roof at Eagle Falls. The most exposure and wildest position I've gotten out of a single pitch in the Adirondacks. The first half is choss but the upper half is bullet.

Begin up a loose, crumbly start to reach the first bolt. Delicately climb through a small runout (poor rock, no bolt option) to a fixed draw. Continue up powerful climbing to a loose block before traversing right to a left-facing corner. OK, the scary climbing is done! Up the corner and traverse right to fire the roof with gymnastic moves. Finally, work left on crimps and power straight up to a ring-bolt anchor on 5.8 terrain.

Be diligent about using alpine draws and be weary of loose rock for the first 5 bolts. Treat this climb like a trad climb and watch for rope drag which can get heinous after pulling the roof.

Named after the mythical lake monster who lurks in nearby Beaver Lake.

Location

A few fixed draws will guide you to the base of the route. The first bolt is about 15 feet up (super easy climbing). The start is 150 feet right of Seventeen and roughly 75 feet left of Class Five Look for the big friggin' roof.

Protection

14 bolts. Some have fixed draws. Ring-bolt anchor.

Photos

I partially broke the undercling in the roof yesterday, I don't think it really matters it just makes matching hands there a little bit harder. Jul 6, 2018
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.12b/c
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
  5.12b/c
John I'll show you the beta sometime, I don't even match that thing! haha Jul 6, 2018
Undercling right hand on the ceiling lean out left hand to the pinch and then bump it to the shelf around the edge....right? Jul 8, 2018

More About The Hydrofax

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