Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore 8/14/17
Page Views: 343 total · 21/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Aug 14, 2017
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

An adventure-style sport route that tackles the biggest roof at Eagle Falls. The most exposure and wildest position I've gotten out of a single pitch in the Adirondacks. The first half is choss but the upper half is bullet.

Begin up a loose, crumbly start to reach the first bolt. Delicately climb through a small runout (poor rock, no bolt option) to a fixed draw. Continue up powerful climbing to a loose block before traversing right to a left-facing corner. OK, the scary climbing is done! Up the corner and traverse right to fire the roof with gymnastic moves. Finally, work left on crimps and power straight up to a ring-bolt anchor on 5.8 terrain.

Be diligent about using alpine draws and be weary of loose rock for the first 5 bolts. Treat this climb like a trad climb and watch for rope drag which can get heinous after pulling the roof.

Named after the mythical lake monster who lurks in nearby Beaver Lake.

Location

A few fixed draws will guide you to the base of the route. The first bolt is about 15 feet up (super easy climbing). The start is 150 feet right of Seventeen and roughly 75 feet left of Class Five Look for the big friggin' roof.

Protection

14 bolts. Some have fixed draws. Ring-bolt anchor.

Photos

Jonathan Tedrow
Rochester, NY
 
Jonathan Tedrow   Rochester, NY
 
I partially broke the undercling in the roof yesterday, I don't think it really matters it just makes matching hands there a little bit harder. Jul 6, 2018
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.12b/c
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
  5.12b/c
John I'll show you the beta sometime, I don't even match that thing! haha Jul 6, 2018
Jonathan Tedrow
Rochester, NY
 
Jonathan Tedrow   Rochester, NY
 
Undercling right hand on the ceiling lean out left hand to the pinch and then bump it to the shelf around the edge....right? Jul 8, 2018