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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax , The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prey Tell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 620 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 12, 2012
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

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The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner. Details

Description

Great, exposed arete climbing, and a good warmup for the harder routes here. Shorter climbers find the moves past the second bolt to be reachy (and hence more difficult).

Climb the right side of the arete past a bolt, then switch to the left side of the arete and up to a stance on the left side of a roof below a crack. Go up the crack to a horizontal, then step right to hidden jugs on the large arete. Go up the arete on good holds, then onto the left face (bolt). Go up a thin crack just right of a large corner to a fixed anchor at the top.

After the upper bolt, you can instead climb up and right to the arete and follow two more bolts to a fixed anchor on the right side of the arete. This allows you to set a TR on The Eagle Has Landed.

Location

From the large overhang (Eagle Buttress), walk right about 100'. Begin on the right side of an arete below a bolt 12' up.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 2" plus 2 bolts. Chains at the top.

Photos

Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Yeah, tricky but definitely worthwhile route! Jul 31, 2015
Alex Mitchell
Cincinnati, OH
 
Alex Mitchell   Cincinnati, OH
 
Thought this route was pretty sand bagged. The notorious 5.9+ rating. I was very close to making the crux move above the second bolt but it was a little to late in the day and I was a bit to tired by the time I got the beta down. Cool route none the less. Sep 2, 2012