Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 776 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 12, 2012
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Great, exposed arete climbing, and a good warmup for the harder routes here. Shorter climbers find the moves past the second bolt to be reachy (and hence more difficult).

Climb the right side of the arete past a bolt, then switch to the left side of the arete and up to a stance on the left side of a roof below a crack. Go up the crack to a horizontal, then step right to hidden jugs on the large arete. Go up the arete on good holds, then onto the left face (bolt). Go up a thin crack just right of a large corner to a fixed anchor at the top.

After the upper bolt, you can instead climb up and right to the arete and follow two more bolts to a fixed anchor on the right side of the arete. This allows you to set a TR on The Eagle Has Landed.

Location

From the large overhang (Eagle Buttress), walk right about 100'. Begin on the right side of an arete below a bolt 12' up.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 2" plus 2 bolts. Chains at the top.

Photos