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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Call Ya Motha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prey Tell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore
Page Views: 61 total · 21/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Jul 23, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore

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Description

A truly awesome pitch, once it cleans up I imagine it will become very popular.

Work up the dirty corner and place tricky gear to pull onto the face. Trending right work up big edges through 5 bolts to a stance. Power up a hard sequence on immaculate rock and work left to long horizontal crack under the roof, campus with no feet. Finally, pull up on to the face and up 5.10 moves to a two-bolt anchor.

Location


Start as for the old description of Papa Don't Preach beginning at a dirty right facing corner 30 feet left of the massive boulder under the Eagle Falls roof. The first bolt is not visible from the ground but there is a glue-in bolt for a route right of Fast and Loose.

Protection

5 bolts, small/medium cams to .75.

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