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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax , The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prey Tell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Marissa Gorman, Joe Falzetta (Belayer) August 9, 2015
Page Views: 371 total, 13/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Aug 9, 2015
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

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The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner. Details

Description

A really stellar pitch up an unlikely face. Scary but quality and can be easily TRd by climbing "Trap 'Em!" first and traversing a few feet to the anchors.

Start in a mediocre crack to get established on the ledge above. Step right and enter a broken crack system under the roof. Pull on very interesting holds making committing runout moves to reach a prominent horizontal crack. Place pro and work up with difficulty on to an exposed and unlikely face with fun thought-provoking moves and tricky gear.

Named for an inside joke made by one of Kris' campers at his nearby summer camp and a nod to the fact that the FA was at night.

Location

About 30 feet right of 5th class and 15 feet right of Sammy-Jo Traceyville.

Protection

The pro on this is very specific and after the first piece there is a sizable runout (15-20ft) before the next opportunity for gear. It's 5.10- terrain through this section on good holds but be aware this is not a beginner's lead. If a hold broke or you slip you would deck on the ledge before probably hitting the ground. Exciting?

The second half has gear at good intervals although it is tricky to find. Keep looking, it's there and it is good. All crux moves at the top are well protected.

One can easily set a toprope on this climb by climbing Trap 'Em!

Two-bolt anchor.

Photos

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