Oral in the Dark
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft|
|FA:||Kristofer Fiore, Marissa Gorman, Joe Falzetta (Belayer) August 9, 2015|
|Page Views:||378 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Kris Fiore on Aug 9, 2015|
|Admins:||Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer|
The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner. Details
DescriptionA really stellar pitch up an unlikely face. Scary but quality and can be easily TRd by climbing "Trap 'Em!" first and traversing a few feet to the anchors.
Start in a mediocre crack to get established on the ledge above. Step right and enter a broken crack system under the roof. Pull on very interesting holds making committing runout moves to reach a prominent horizontal crack. Place pro and work up with difficulty on to an exposed and unlikely face with fun thought-provoking moves and tricky gear.
Named for an inside joke made by one of Kris' campers at his nearby summer camp and a nod to the fact that the FA was at night.
ProtectionThe pro on this is very specific and after the first piece there is a sizable runout (15-20ft) before the next opportunity for gear. It's 5.10- terrain through this section on good holds but be aware this is not a beginner's lead. If a hold broke or you slip you would deck on the ledge before probably hitting the ground. Exciting?
The second half has gear at good intervals although it is tricky to find. Keep looking, it's there and it is good. All crux moves at the top are well protected.
One can easily set a toprope on this climb by climbing Trap 'Em!