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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Call Ya Motha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prey Tell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore (July 7, 2017)
Page Views: 512 total · 35/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Jul 7, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore

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Description

An imposing and unlikely steep route up a gently overhanging red face with two mean cruxes. Originally graded 12c/d because I had never climbed 5.13 and felt bashful about the grade.

Begin 15' right of Red Book at the line of bolts up the red face. Make a few bouldery moves off the ground to gain a jug rest. From the jug rest, clip high and then work through a powerful, beta-specific crux to a shake and an optional cam. Traverse left to the redpoint crux up a shallow corner before traversing back right on horizontals. Lock into and finish up the moderate finger and handcrack to a ring-bolt anchor.

Location

15' right of Red Book.

Protection

6 bolts, one or two small/medium-sized cams on moderate terrain to finish up.

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
5.13a
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
5.13a
Jim snagged the second ascent of this and called both cruxes V7, solidifying this as 5.13. Sorry for the sandbag! Aug 10, 2018

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