Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore (July 7, 2017)
Page Views: 576 total · 31/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Jul 7, 2017
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

An imposing and unlikely steep route up a gently overhanging red face with two mean cruxes. Originally graded 12c/d because I had never climbed 5.13 and felt bashful about the grade.

Begin 15' right of Red Book at the line of bolts up the red face. Make a few bouldery moves off the ground to gain a jug rest. From the jug rest, clip high and then work through a powerful, beta-specific crux to a shake and an optional cam. Traverse left to the redpoint crux up a shallow corner before traversing back right on horizontals. Lock into and finish up the moderate finger and handcrack to a ring-bolt anchor.

Location

15' right of Red Book.

Protection

6 bolts, one or two small/medium-sized cams on moderate terrain to finish up.

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.13a
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
  5.13a
Jim snagged the second ascent of this and called both cruxes V7, solidifying this as 5.13. Sorry for the sandbag! Aug 10, 2018