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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Call Ya Motha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prey Tell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: TR, 90 ft
FA: Jonathan Tedrow, Bri Goold
Page Views: 80 total · 31/month
Shared By: Jonathan Tedrow on Jul 6, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore

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Description

‚ÄčGlide up the first few ledges and take a rest at the last big ledge halfway up the route. Here the route starts getting chaussy and pumpy. Climb up to the first roof, get a good side pull, and find the jugs up and to the right, some of which are hard to see. Find a sloper and a crimp to an enormous jug that looks like it wants to fly off the wall. Get a good stance to pull a left hand. Get your right hand on the arête to pull up and into the chimney. Climb up the chaussy chimney to the finish. We recommend cleaning the route a bit around the finish. Let me know what you think of the grade I thought it was closer to a nine.

Location

The start is 15 feet left of The Hydrofax and 130 feet right of Seventeen. There is a large ledge about 20 feet up.

Protection

Currently toprope only, Make sure to bring a static line or a lot of sling to build the anchor as the closest suitable trees are about 20-30 feet from the edge making rope drag awful

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Jonathan Tedrow
  5.10a
Jonathan Tedrow  
  5.10a
Let me know if this line has already been climbed so I can change stuff. Also if bolts could be added that would be great. Route finishes in the right facing corner to the left of the slightly concaved wall to the left of Hydrofax's anchor. Jul 9, 2018
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
I'd say this certainly hasn't been climbed before. I've rapped the line before during bolting efforts for The Hydrofax. I don't see anyone jumping to bolt this though, it would be a big job with those roofs. The Hydrofax took me 5 different bolting days to finally complete, a total of more than 25 hours went into it. Obviously this would be easier than that but it's still an undertaking. Cool line though, there are a few more to pick out in that area I might get to this summer. Jul 10, 2018

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