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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prey Tell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 864 total · 15/month
Shared By: NickG on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore

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Description

Climb up and traverse right past 2 bolts (crux, backclean 1st bolt to avoid rope drag). Climb the face past a horizontal and a few bolts, trending left. Follow the horizontal crack left to the arete and finish on easier terrain.

Location

The line to the left of LM, Black bolts I believe. There is a chair shaped tree at the base.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jim Lawyer    
 
This is an especially good route, one that I do every time I visit. The crux is moving right under the roof at the second bolt. The traverse left is the second crux. Once on the arete, it doesn't ease up for a few move moves.

The fixed anchor is on the right side of the arete. The anchor to the left is for Stihl Water.

You can avoid the crux by starting as for LM, the large left-facing flake to the right. Climbed this way the grade is reduced to 5.10b or so. Aug 5, 2014
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Don't bypass the crux on this one! It's one quick move with a huge bolt over your head!!! Jul 31, 2015
awesome route!! 3 days ago

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