Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jim Lawyer
Page Views: 1,199 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on May 7, 2013
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Ascends the right side of the largest and most prominent roof system known as Eagle Buttress. A one-move wonder, but what a move! At least the bolt is above your head.

Stick clip. Go up a short crack and through overhanging blocky terrain to an open book corner. Up the corner, then move left onto the orange wall. Up the wall to a good stance below the overhanging face above. Make a hard, crimpy, highstep (crux) and dyno for the thank-god bucket. Heel hook and mantel onto the edge, then climb easier terrain to a fixed anchor at the top.

Location

Begin on the right side of the roofs in an open area in the giant talus, and 15' right of a giant boulder.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
This was probably my favorite climb at Eagle Falls. But I love crimpy faces and incuts. Amazing holds! I placed a green alien behind the hollow block below the crux bolt - made me feel better about clipping that crux bolt which is a bit harder if you are shorter. Jul 31, 2015
Jonathan Tedrow
Rochester, NY
 
Jonathan Tedrow   Rochester, NY
 
What is the consensus behind this being a 5.11c? This felt much more like a 5.11a to me and I'm only 5'7 and the crux didn't feel super hard. Jul 9, 2018
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
Jon, I definitely find this to be 11c. I've actually only been able to redpoint it clean once and it has always felt hard. That was before it was sport but I still have no quarrels calling it 11c. I'd love to know if you found something I didn't! Jul 18, 2018