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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax , The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prey Tell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,039 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on May 7, 2013
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

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The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner. Details

Description

Ascends the right side of the largest and most prominent roof system known as Eagle Buttress. A one-move wonder, but what a move! At least the bolt is above your head.

Stick clip. Go up a short crack and through overhanging blocky terrain to an open book corner. Up the corner, then move left onto the orange wall. Up the wall to a good stance below the overhanging face above. Make a hard, crimpy, highstep (crux) and dyno for the thank-god bucket. Heel hook and mantel onto the edge, then climb easier terrain to a fixed anchor at the top.

Location

Begin on the right side of the roofs in an open area in the giant talus, and 15' right of a giant boulder.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

Edek Falkowski
Buffalo, NY
Edek Falkowski   Buffalo, NY
As of 9/24/17, there seems to be a wasp or hornets' nest somewhere around the fin. Saw dozens of them flying around and landing right on the route. This probably would bump the grade a bit. Sep 25, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
This was probably my favorite climb at Eagle Falls. But I love crimpy faces and incuts. Amazing holds! I placed a green alien behind the hollow block below the crux bolt - made me feel better about clipping that crux bolt which is a bit harder if you are shorter. Jul 31, 2015