Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore (10/13/19)
Page Views: 175 total · 55/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Oct 13, 2019
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best hard gear routes I have ever done. Simply immaculate.

5.12d (5.10R) as for the R... it's 20 feet to the first placement and arguably 15 more feet to the next although some untested mediocre pieces were placed between. That said, the boulder crux and redpoint crux are both well protected.

Begin as for Ravenous but at the ledge 8 feet up, work out right through an unprotected V1 boulder problem and a stance to place gear. From here tackle a fierce V6 boulder problem to a few mediocre gear placements and a shake below the third of three overlaps. Step right to pull the overlap and climb the immaculate arete and crack in the face past a redpoint crux and up to a horizontal break and a perfect shake on the arete. Move up and left to another stance before the roof crack above to a two-bolt anchor.

Location

Start as for Ravenous but break right to the immense bottomless arete.

Protection

Mostly small gear but a .75 for the roof crack.

Beta, Safety, & Spoilers

I'm torn between calling this R and PG-13. The first piece of gear is 20 feet up and requires compression 5.10 climbing to reach so a slip would obviously land you on the ground. The next good piece is another 15 or so feet. There are two marginal placements between these two pieces but I really don't know how good they are though a solid belayer would keep you off the ground if you skipped them. The first piece and the crux piece are both medium/small stoppers that are completely bomber.

That said, this really spoke to me as a gear route. It is an intimidating and aesthetic line that tackles one of the most prominent aretes at Eagle Falls and with the intermittent crack system I really don't feel it warrants fixed protection. The placements that are there, while sparse, are unquestionably good. I really hope some folks at least toprope this because it's one of the best routes at the cliff. The way I reasoned it was that adding one or two bolts would not make an impact on the number of lead attempts this climb gets and so therefore I prefer it as a pure gear climb.

Photos