Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Marissa Gorman July 19, 2015
Page Views: 397 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Jul 21, 2015
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A committing line that is headier than the moves themselves. Well protected except for the lowest section (5.6). A super fun roof and great laybacking at the top.

Begin on easy loose blocks to a good stance with great pro under the roof. Go ahead and place all seven #3 camalots you have. Establish yourself on good holds to pull out from the roof with some great exposure over raging rapids. A wild position for a 5.9! Finally, work up into a stance in the wide crack before a final pumpy layback crux to the top.

No offwidth technique required. :P

Location

About 15 feet right of 5th Class. You'll know you've found it if you are standing under a massive fist-sized roof crack.

Protection

Skip the small stuff, nothing smaller than a .75 is useable. Lead without a #4 although one could be helpful before the layback finish where the crack is wide.

Now has a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

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