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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prey Tell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Luke Mendola, August 21, 2016
Page Views: 431 total · 19/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Aug 21, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

The best balance climbing at Eagle Falls. If you can do it, you'll love it. If you can't, you'll probably hate it. Thin cruxes, precision footwork, and good balance are a must.

Start at the line of bolts just right of Naked Truth. Boulder up past various thin cruxes, one of which can be cheated by moving left although the fall might be a bit weird. Continue up the off-vertical face until a jug at the last bolt. One last heartbreaker move gains a nice crack to the top.

I'm notoriously bad at rating climbs, especially slabby stuff so feel free to chime in if the rating is off.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just right of Naked Truth up the obvious bolted face. Look for 5 glue-in bolts.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A few finger-sized pieces for the top cracks. Could be lead with just the 5 bolts but it'd be a whip from the top on 5.9 moves. Admittedly, not my best bolting job, the climbing is mostly to the left of the bolts so rack on the right. Sorry, friends.

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