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Eagle Falls Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Eagle Falls

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Big Donger, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Call Ya Motha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Cracked T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dark Lunch T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
	El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Go to Bread S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	LM T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Prey Tell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Queer Eye for the Straight Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Random Rope T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Red Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Reverse Kill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Waiting line, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	We Want No Loss Nor Gain of Life T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R

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Elevation:	1,343 ft	409 m
GPS:	43.9051, -75.1959 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	77,509 total · 471/month
Shared By:	Jim Lawyer on Jun 6, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Kristen Fiore, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This crag runs alongside the Beaver River just downstream from Beaver Lake. The rock is brittle in some places, but has unusual hidden holds that make the faces, aretes, and roofs very climbable. The natural crack lines tend to be chossy and, due to the nature of the brittle rock, a bit suspect but the popular routes are worth traveling for.

This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so loud that communication with a leader is often impaired or impossible depending on your route.

The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which are in the second edition of Adirondack Rock although another wave of new route activity in the last few years (2015 - 2020) is not yet in print.

Highlights are Class Five and The Hydrofax, two of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sit above noisy rapids, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, Go to Bread, delicate face climbing, El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face, No Fun at Camp No Sex at Breakfast, Eagle Falls' hardest climbing, and Let the Wild Rumpus Start which Jim Lawyer gave the high praise of calling, "One of the best 5.12c's in the park."

Getting There

From Lowville, follow Number Four Road to near its end. About 1/2 mile east of the intersection with Stillwater Road, turn left onto Soft Maple Road. This road is unmarked but there is a brown sign that says, "Beaver River Canoe Route." Go about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto another dirt road signed "Beaver River Canoe Route". Drive 2 minutes along the large green pipe on your right and park on the left.

Cross the road, walk down the stairs under the penstock, then follow a trail south to the cliff.

NEW Alternate North Approach (NO RIVER CROSSING)

From the beginning of Fish Creek Road (where Long Pond Rd turns left) drive 7 miles to a dirt road on the right. The road is not marked, however there are orange and white posts as well as an orange sign that says "13-04-00" that might help. Turn right and drive .1 miles to a grassy pull off and a red trail marker. (Turn: 43.91681, -75.19511. Parking: 43.91480, -75.19630.)

From the start of the trailhead down an obvious logging road with red trail markers. Stay on this to cross a stream with a pond on the left. After a few minutes the trail leaves the logging road to the left. After 10 minutes of obvious, relatively flat hiking, you'll reach the Beaver River with some small dirty cliffs on the left. A few more minutes deposits you to the far left end of the crag at Grumpy Raccoon. The full approach is roughly 1 mile / 20 minutes.

River Crossing

One of the most beautiful parts of climbing at Eagle Falls is the river. Unfortunately, it also presents one of the greatest hurdles to climbing access.

Board Crossing:

In late spring, summer, and fall the river is usually low enough to be crossed using boards that are stashed along the river a few hundred feet upstream from the falls. Look for a boulder on the far side with a nice flat spot. If using the board with the cross bean, that side goes on the bank side, the other side goes to the boulder. Make sure to pull the board back up for our paddling friends.

Canoe Crossing

If the river is high and the line is down or you don't feel like using it you can always bring some kind of boat and launch from the beaver river canoe run launch 1/8 mile north of the parking area into Beaver Lake and boat across the lake above the damn. It's about a 3 minute canoe ride and leads to a very obvious heardpath that brings you south to the top of the cliff.

North Approach

Due to the purchase of the Croghan Conservation Easement, there is now an entirely new trail that, while it is a little bit longer, entirely avoids the Beaver River Crossing and is now likely the most logical option for early spring climbing or during some of the fall weekend dam releases.

49 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 34 ● Seventeen Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 27 ● Red Book Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 34 ● Naked Truth Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 33 ● Prey Tell Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 31 ● Lloyds of Lowville Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 17 ● Hot n' Stanky Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 32 ● The Eagle Has Landed Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 20 ● Ravenous Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 11 ● Lichen or Not Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 15 ● El Supremo Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 8 ● Class Five Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 17 ● Promiscuous Girl Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 4 ● The Hydrofax Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 4 ● Let The Wild Rumpus Start Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 4 ● No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast Sport

● Seventeen

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Red Book

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Naked Truth

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR

● Prey Tell

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

● Lloyds of Lowville

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport

● Hot n' Stanky

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● The Eagle Has Landed

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

● Ravenous

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● Lichen or Not

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad

● El Supremo

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● Class Five

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● Promiscuous Girl

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport

● The Hydrofax

5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

● Let The Wild Rumpus Start

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

● No Fun at Camp, No Sex at B…

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport

More Classic Climbs in Eagle Falls »

Sun & Shade

Sun Angles Details:

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest · West

Sunny Roughly 11am to 6pm during high season

6am

8pm

Details: The north end of the cliff is shorter and much shadier although most the routes have shade for the first half. El Supremo, Hot n' Stanky, Seventeen, and Perky Andrea bake in the sun from the moment the sun comes around until sunset.