Eagle Falls Rock Climbing
|GPS:||43.905, -75.196 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||62,596 total · 497/month|
|Shared By:||Jim Lawyer on Jun 6, 2011|
|Admins:||Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore, Morgan Patterson|
This crag runs alongside the Beaver River just downstream from Beaver Lake. The rock is brittle in some places, but has unusual hidden holds that make the faces, aretes, and roofs very climbable. The natural crack lines tend to be chossy and, due to the nature of the brittle rock, a bit suspect but the popular routes are worth traveling for.
This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so loud that communication with a leader is often impaired or impossible depending on your route.
The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which are in the second edition of Adirondack Rock although another wave of new route activity in the last few years (2015 - 2020) is not yet in print.
Highlights are Class Five and The Hydrofax, two of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sit above noisy rapids, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, Go to Bread, delicate face climbing, El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face, No Fun at Camp No Sex at Breakfast, Eagle Falls' hardest climbing, and Let the Wild Rumpus Start which Jim Lawyer gave the high praise of calling, "One of the best 5.12c's in the park."
From Lowville, follow Number Four Road to near its end. About 1/2 mile east of the intersection with Stillwater Road, turn left onto Soft Maple Road. This road is unmarked but there is a brown sign that says, "Beaver River Canoe Route." Go about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto another dirt road signed "Beaver River Canoe Route". Drive 2 minutes along the large green pipe on your right and park on the left.
Cross the road, walk down the stairs under the penstock, then follow a trail south to the cliff.
NEW Alternate North Approach (NO RIVER CROSSING)
From the beginning of Fish Creek Road (where Long Pond Rd turns left) drive 7 miles to a dirt road on the right. The road is not marked, however there are orange and white posts as well as an orange sign that says "13-04-00" that might help. Turn right and drive .1 miles to a grassy pull off and a red trail marker.
From the start of the trail head down an obvious logging road with red trail markers. Stay on this to cross a stream with a pond on the left. After a few minutes the trail leaves the logging road to the left. After 10 minutes of obvious, relatively flat hiking, you will reach the Beaver River with some small dirty cliffs on the left. A few more minutes deposits you to the far left end of the crag at Grumpy Raccoon.
One of the most beautiful parts of climbing at Eagle Falls is the river. Unfortunately, it also presents one of the greatest hurdles to climbing access.
In late spring, summer, and fall the river is usually low enough to be crossed using boards that are stashed along the river a few hundred feet upstream from the falls. Look for a boulder on the far side with a nice flat spot. If using the board with the cross bean, that side goes on the bank side, the other side goes to the boulder. Make sure to pull the board back up for our paddling friends.
If the river is high and the line is down or you don't feel like using it you can always bring some kind of boat and launch from the beaver river canoe run launch 1/8 mile north of the parking area into Beaver Lake and boat across the lake above the damn. It's about a 3 minute canoe ride and leads to a very obvious heardpath that brings you south to the top of the cliff.
Due to the purchase of the Croghan Conservation Easement, there is now an entirely new trail that, while it is a little bit longer, entirely avoids the Beaver River Crossing and is now likely the most logical option for early spring climbing or during some of the fall weekend dam releases.
Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Falls
Days w Precip