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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prey Tell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 1,343 ft
GPS: 43.905, -75.196 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,661 total · 247/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 6, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This crag runs alongside the Beaver River just downstream from Beaver Lake. The rock is very brittle, but has unusual hidden holds that make the faces, aretes, and roofs very climbable. The natural crack lines tend to be chossy and, due to the nature of the brittle rock, a bit suspect.

This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so load that communication with a leader is often impossible.

The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which were put up since 2008; they are in the second edition of Adirondack Rock. This cliff has also seen another wave of new route activity in the last few years not yet in print.

Highlights are Class Five and The Hydrofax, two of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sit above noisy rapids, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, Go to Bread, delicate face climbing, El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face, and No Fun at Camp No Sex at Breakfast, Eagle Falls' hardest climbing.

Getting There

From Lowville, follow Number Four Road to near its end. About 1/2 mile east of the intersection with Stillwater Road, turn left onto Soft Maple Road. This road is unmarked but there is a brown sign that says, "Beaver River Canoe Route." Go about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto another dirt road signed "Beaver River Canoe Route". Drive 1/2 mile along the large green pipe on your right and park on the left.

Cross the road, walk down the stairs under the penstock, then follow a trail south to the cliff.

River Crossing

One of the most beautiful parts of climbing at Eagle Falls is the river. Unfortunately, it also presents one of the greatest hurdles to climbing access.

Board Crossing:
In late summer and fall the river is usually low enough to be crossed using a board that is stashed along the river a few hundred feet upstream from the falls. Look for a boulder on the far side with a nice flat spot. Make sure to pull the board back up for our paddling friends!

Tyrolean Traverse
In summer of 2017 a fixed tryolean line was added to the cliff. From spring until mid-summer the water is usually too high to use the board crossing. It is a few hundred feet upstream from the usual board crossing. Make sure to use a pulley instead of a carabiner to reduce wear on the rope. It may need tightening for a few years as it is a new rope!

Canoe Crossing
If the river is high and the line is down or you don't feel like using it you can always bring some kind of boat and launch from the beaver river canoe run launch 1/8 mile north of the parking area into Beaver Lake and boat across the lake above the damn. It's about a 3 minute canoe ride and leads to a very obvious heardpath that brings you south to the top of the cliff.

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Red Book
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Seventeen
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Naked Truth
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
Stihl Water
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Lloyds of Lowville
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Prey Tell
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Hot n' Stanky
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
The Eagle Has Landed
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Go to Bread
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Ravenous
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Lichen or Not
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
El Supremo
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Class Five
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Promiscuous Girl
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Red Book
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Seventeen
 17
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Naked Truth
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Stihl Water
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Lloyds of Lowville
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Prey Tell
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hot n' Stanky
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Eagle Has Landed
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Go to Bread
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Ravenous
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lichen or Not
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
El Supremo
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Class Five
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Promiscuous Girl
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at B…
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Falls »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest · West
Sunny Roughly 11am to 6pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: The north end of the cliff is shorter and much shadier although most the routes have shade for the first half. El Supremo, Hot n' Stanky, Seventeen, and Perky Andrea bake in the sun from the moment the sun comes around until sunset.

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

SwineFlew
Watertown, NY
SwineFlew   Watertown, NY
In the Spring the river really flows strongly and can easily sweep you off your feet. Instead of crossing the river where the guidebook says, bring an extra pair of shoes and just walk across the river where it widens. THe easiest spot I have seen is directly in front of you when you walk down the stairs under the green pipe. Your feet will get wet & cold, but thats better than falling in a deeper area and getting swept into the swimming hole.
Mar 19, 2012
Alex Mitchell
Phoenix, AZ
Alex Mitchell   Phoenix, AZ
A very cool area with lots of great climbs on solid, mostly clean rock. We did not know they were doing a release of the river so the river was about 2 feet higher when we left as when we came. I ended up dropping my rope in the river and getting pretty wet to the amusement of the about two hundred people swimming and watching the kayakers. Sep 3, 2012
There was a rock climbing accident on route number 23, Stacked. The rock broke under the pressure of the cams in the crack. There are a lot of newly developed and rarely climbed routes here. Be careful with your gear placements and especially anchors. consider using a tree to be extra redundant.

A helmet saved my sister's life without a doubt. Her head hit a downed tree and the helmet caught it and jerked to the side instead of her skull. This is a first hand account. If you have a helmet wear it, if you don't have one get one. May 29, 2013
Jim Lawyer    
katyg628: That's terrible about your sister's fall. I second the helmet advice at this cliff. (And, well, for pretty much any cliff.)

In my experience, the rock at Eagle Falls is friable and brittle. I've seen gear placements blow apart cracks that seemed solid. The original routes (and most of those documented in Adirondack Rock) were put in ground-up, have had no additional cleaning, and see very little traffic. Most need a session with a pry bar and scrub brush.

The newer routes (those documented here) have all been meticulously cleaned, prepared, and bolted and are a much safer option. But even on these routes, I recommend following your advice and wearing a helmet. May 30, 2013
NickG
Syracuse/Keene, NY
NickG   Syracuse/Keene, NY
Flows can be checked here.

americanwhitewater.org/cont… Sep 9, 2013
Shane Kenyon
Canandaigua (city), NY
Shane Kenyon   Canandaigua (city), NY
Looks like the bear carcase is gone. Great climbs, didn't find it chossy at all. Looking forward to climbing here several more times this season! Aug 26, 2015
PeterW
Dryden, NY
PeterW   Dryden, NY
Hornets nests at the cruxes of El Supremo and Welcome to the Machine on 4/16/16. Apr 17, 2016
Richard Beck
Fayetteville, NC
Richard Beck   Fayetteville, NC
Have there been any routes put up between "Papa Don't Preach" and "El Supremo"? Seems like there are a lot of possible climbs all along the cliff. Apr 27, 2016
Jim Lawyer    
As of May 10, 2017, The river is still too high to safely cross. Need a canoe to cross above the dam. The entire area is flooded with sooo much water.

Routes are dry, though. May 11, 2017
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
July 1 update:

River still to high to cross using the boards. A difficult crossing can be made immediately at the bottom of the stairs (It's HARD) and then the canoe route is an option as well. Jul 4, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
As of July 30, 2017, the river is still too high to cross without a canoe. There is now a tyrolean upstream of the normal board crossing. Bring a pulley. Aug 1, 2017
I used the Tyrolean for the first time on Monday. Getting off on the climber side is really hard for a short person. Make sure your PAS that is attached has a long sling so your feet can reach the rocks. BTW there is only one crossing board left. Jul 14, 2018
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
I should get around to re-orienting the tyroleon soon. It's worth noting that the river as probably at an all time low right now as we haven't gotten substantial rain in weeks but the water is still coming up over the board. I think the rocks are shifting underneath so be extra diligent to remove the board at the end of your day so it doesn't wash away on us. Jul 14, 2018

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