Eagle Falls Rock Climbing
|GPS:||43.905, -75.196 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||50,093 total · 438/month|
|Shared By:||Jim Lawyer on Jun 6, 2011|
|Admins:||Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore|
This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so loud that communication with a leader is often impaired or impossible depending on your route.
The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which are in the second edition of Adirondack Rock although another wave of new route activity in the last few years (2015 - 2019) is not yet in print.
Highlights are Class Five and The Hydrofax, two of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sit above noisy rapids, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, Go to Bread, delicate face climbing, El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face, No Fun at Camp No Sex at Breakfast, Eagle Falls' hardest climbing, and Let the Wild Rumpus Start which Jim Lawyer gave the high praise of calling, "One of the best 5.12c's in the park."
Cross the road, walk down the stairs under the penstock, then follow a trail south to the cliff.
In late summer and fall the river is usually low enough to be crossed using a board that is stashed along the river a few hundred feet upstream from the falls. Look for a boulder on the far side with a nice flat spot. Make sure to pull the board back up for our paddling friends!
In summer of 2017 a fixed tryolean line was added to the cliff. From spring until mid-summer the water is usually too high to use the board crossing. It is a few hundred feet upstream from the usual board crossing. Make sure to use a pulley instead of a carabiner to reduce wear on the rope. It may need tightening for a few years as it is a new rope!
If the river is high and the line is down or you don't feel like using it you can always bring some kind of boat and launch from the beaver river canoe run launch 1/8 mile north of the parking area into Beaver Lake and boat across the lake above the damn. It's about a 3 minute canoe ride and leads to a very obvious heardpath that brings you south to the top of the cliff.
Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Falls
Days w Precip