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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Call Ya Motha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prey Tell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rolf Orsagh, Mark Chauvin Bezinque
Page Views: 1,065 total · 14/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Sep 2, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore

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Description

An excellent climb by any standard. One of the best trad climbs at Eagle Falls on solid, secure rock. Climb the face to a small roof. Navigate the roof and move into the left-facing book. Climb up to a ledge before a small roof gaurds the anchor.

V1: I highly recommend instead of stepping right into the left-facing corner, you instead move left to the arete. It's slightly harder to protect but is far superior in exposure and rock quality. A must-do variation. - Kris

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
There is a wonderful variation if you trend left about 2/3 of the way up and out on the exposed arete. Way more exposure and makes for an even better line in my opinion.

A little trickier to protect but still a G rating. One of my favorite 5.7s anywhere. Sep 17, 2014
Shane Kenyon
Canandaigua (city), NY
 
Shane Kenyon   Canandaigua (city), NY
 
I broke off a big hold on this yesterday when pulling up over a ledge. It took downward force but when I pulled outward it snapped off and was definitely a death dealer. The section is about 1/3 of the way up and marked by orange/black rock which has a lot of cracks and is eroded and broken looking. I would not be surprised if more comes off this season. Be careful! Jul 16, 2018

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