Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Rolf Orsagh, Mark Chauvin Bezinque
Page Views: 1,075 total · 14/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Sep 2, 2012
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

An excellent climb by any standard. One of the best trad climbs at Eagle Falls on solid, secure rock. Climb the face to a small roof. Navigate the roof and move into the left-facing book. Climb up to a ledge before a small roof gaurds the anchor.

V1: I highly recommend instead of stepping right into the left-facing corner, you instead move left to the arete. It's slightly harder to protect but is far superior in exposure and rock quality. A must-do variation. - Kris

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
There is a wonderful variation if you trend left about 2/3 of the way up and out on the exposed arete. Way more exposure and makes for an even better line in my opinion.

A little trickier to protect but still a G rating. One of my favorite 5.7s anywhere. Sep 17, 2014
Shane Kenyon
Canandaigua (city), NY
 
Shane Kenyon   Canandaigua (city), NY
 
I broke off a big hold on this yesterday when pulling up over a ledge. It took downward force but when I pulled outward it snapped off and was definitely a death dealer. The section is about 1/3 of the way up and marked by orange/black rock which has a lot of cracks and is eroded and broken looking. I would not be surprised if more comes off this season. Be careful! Jul 16, 2018