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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax , The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Prey Tell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jim Lawyer, Simeon Warner, Leslie Ackerman
Page Views: 1,418 total, 21/month
Shared By: SwineFlew on Apr 3, 2012
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

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The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner. Details

Description

The route features clean climbing up a solid, slightly-off vertical face.

Location

Starts at the same place as Fipi Lele.

Start at the base of the path to the top of the cliff. Walk upstream on the path that runs along the base. Come to a large boulder on your right with several decently sized ones around it. Walk around the corner to your left. On the left and right are jutting corners, dead center is the start, under the bolt.

Protection

Thin cracks from top to bottom and a bolt dead center for traditional climbing. A large, sturdy tree and no shrubs at the edge for toproping.

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
 
After closely examining the hollow ground, surrounding vegetation (or lack thereof), and climb topout I took the initiative this week to install bolts at the top of this climb. It doesn't change the character of the climb and without them there is really no way to climb it without leading it and walking 25 feet through the woods to belay the follower.

The bolts are high-quality stainless steel ClimbTech Legacy bolts. They are beefy and strong but also specifically designed to be 100% removable. If anyone takes issue with these bolts let me know and I will remove them and fill the holes with epoxy. You'll never know they were there.

Chains coming soon. Mar 14, 2015