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Routes in Eagle Falls

Adsite Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Call Ya Motha S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Class Five S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dobsonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle Has Landed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ramp T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
El Supremo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face of a Thousand Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fast and Loose T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fipi Lele T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go to Bread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grumpy Racoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy's Curse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hooker Heels and Crimp Pimps T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot n' Stanky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hydrofax, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jaw Gains TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let The Wild Rumpus Start S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lichen or Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lloyds of Lowville S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey Bars and Geetar Stars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Naked Truth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Fun at Camp, No Sex at Breakfast T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open for Business TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oral in the Dark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Perky Andrea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prey Tell S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Promiscuous Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ravenous S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Book T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rolling Stone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sammy-Jo Traceyville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seventeen T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Maple Times T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stihl Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tasp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Raccoons in a Patagonia Fleece S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tower of Babel, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trap 'em! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,397 total · 22/month
Shared By: NickG on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the arete past 4 bolts (crux). Gain a stance and then climb easier rock past bolts to the anchor. Beautiful stone!

Previously 12a although a few critical holds broke bumping the grade up to 12b.

Location

The arete just to the right of Lichen or Not.

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

The second hold on the route broke off. This large crucial jug hold looked substantial but was actually only attached by a couple square inches of rock. The broken hold is still mostly in one piece and was placed in the offwidth crack just to the right of the start of the climb. The route may still go but it will certainly be harder in its current condition.
Aug 15, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
Oof! That's right through one of the cruxes. Could bump the grade for sure... Aug 25, 2016
Yea I think my buddy broke that hold off while I was belaying him. It still went at 12a he thought iirc. He didn't even crank on it hard. Just eagle falls rock being brittle like usual I think. Sep 1, 2016
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
 
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
 
John, I broke off a different one. It was farther down and to the right, not even on the route. This breakage will certainly change things. Sep 1, 2016
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
 
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
 
Has this route been done since the breakage? Apr 1, 2017
Jim Lawyer

  5.12b
Jim Lawyer    
  5.12b
Matt, yes, the route has been led since the loss of the two aforementioned holds. Goes at 12b, in my opinion...just a little harder than the original. Apr 18, 2017

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