Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,407 total · 22/month
Shared By: NickG on Sep 8, 2013
Admins: Kris Fiore, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the arete past 4 bolts (crux). Gain a stance and then climb easier rock past bolts to the anchor. Beautiful stone!

Previously 12a although a few critical holds broke bumping the grade up to 12b.

Location

The arete just to the right of Lichen or Not.

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

The second hold on the route broke off. This large crucial jug hold looked substantial but was actually only attached by a couple square inches of rock. The broken hold is still mostly in one piece and was placed in the offwidth crack just to the right of the start of the climb. The route may still go but it will certainly be harder in its current condition.
Aug 15, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
Oof! That's right through one of the cruxes. Could bump the grade for sure... Aug 25, 2016
Yea I think my buddy broke that hold off while I was belaying him. It still went at 12a he thought iirc. He didn't even crank on it hard. Just eagle falls rock being brittle like usual I think. Sep 1, 2016
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
 
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
 
John, I broke off a different one. It was farther down and to the right, not even on the route. This breakage will certainly change things. Sep 1, 2016
Matt Rhodin
Denver, CO
 
Matt Rhodin   Denver, CO
 
Has this route been done since the breakage? Apr 1, 2017
Jim Lawyer

  5.12b
Jim Lawyer    
  5.12b
Matt, yes, the route has been led since the loss of the two aforementioned holds. Goes at 12b, in my opinion...just a little harder than the original. Apr 18, 2017