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The Hydrofax

5.12b/c, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: Kristen Fiore 8/14/17
New York > Adirondacks > I: Old Forge Re… > Eagle Falls

Description

An adventure-style sport route that tackles the biggest roof at Eagle Falls. The most exposure and wildest position I've gotten out of a single pitch in the Adirondacks. The first half is a bit chossy but the upper half is bullet. The position of the second half makes up for the crappy rock quality in the first half. 

Begin up a loose start to reach the first bolt. Delicately climb through a small runout to a fixed draw. Continue up powerful climbing to a loose block before traversing right to a left-facing corner. OK, the scary climbing is done! Up the corner and make a technical traverse right to fire the roof with gymnastic moves. Finally, work left on crimps and power straight up to a ring-bolt anchor on 5.8 terrain.

Be diligent about using alpine draws and be weary of loose rock for the first several bolts. Treat this climb like a trad climb and watch for rope drag around the roof. Several fixed draws make bailing (especially at the crux) easy to do without losing gear and make lowering easier.

Named after the mythical lake monster who lurks in nearby Beaver Lake.

Location

A few fixed draws will guide you to the base of the route. The first bolt is about 15 feet up (super easy climbing). The start is 150 feet right of Seventeen and roughly 75 feet left of Class Five Look for the biiig roof system.

Protection

14 bolts. Some have fixed draws. Ring-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Navigating the crux of The Hydrofax.
[Hide Photo] Navigating the crux of The Hydrofax.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jonathan Tedrow
Rochester, NY
 
[Hide Comment] I partially broke the undercling in the roof yesterday, I don't think it really matters it just makes matching hands there a little bit harder. Jul 6, 2018
Kristen Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] John I'll show you the beta sometime, I don't even match that thing! Jul 6, 2018
Jonathan Tedrow
Rochester, NY
 
[Hide Comment] Undercling right hand on the ceiling lean out left hand to the pinch and then bump it to the shelf around the edge....right? Jul 8, 2018
aparnas
 
[Hide Comment] Petition to rename this beast "hydrochoss". Excellent position and moves at the roof, downright awful rock quality throughout (the roof holds are creaking and a small bit broke off of the main undercling today). Jul 15, 2023