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Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Eric Clark, Ashley Tucker, JS, July 2015
Page Views: 276 total, 10/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 16, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is actually a direct start of sorts to the second pitch of Starstruck, but the new climbing is substantial enough to justify giving the line its own name. Nice pitch for the 5.9ish trad leader who enjoys BCC quartzite. Climb a shallow right-facing dihedral to its top, clip a bolt, then continue more or less straight up to a clean left-leaning thin crack leading to a short overhang guarding the entrance into a large, wide, left-leading dihedral. (The start of the left-leaning thin crack is about 15 feet straight left from the bolts atop Starstruck'’s first pitch, which are easily reached if desired). Continue up the wide dihedral to a ledge with chain anchors. Akahi ends here, but one can continue up the last pitch of Starstruck if rope drag is reasonable, creating one of the longest pitches in BCC --– 165 or so feet.

Location

Between Minotaur and Tyrion. Approach by locating the base of Tyrion, then scrambling to a good ledge about 25 feet up and right, near a small oak tree.

Protection

Set of nuts and cams, micro to 2-3 inches. The smallest microcams come in handy. Watch rope drag. Two raps, both from chain anchors, get you down from the ledge marking the end of the route. One rap can be had with a 70 meter rope, but the rope will barely reach so beware.

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