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Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: JS, Brent Manning, Oct. 2008
Page Views: 513 total, 6/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Nov 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Formerly a trad route with somewhat shaky rock, retro-bolting and aggressive cleaning have created one of the better 5.9 sport routes in BCC. The first three bolts protect increasingly steep climbing, culminating in a wild overhanging layback up a hollow flake. Above, more bolts protect a slabby but airy traverse to the right and spectacular climbing just left of an arête. Above, stay left of the Red Gorilla/Nimbus chains on the face of a block-like feature past a bolt, then up to the last bolt protecting a boulder move to hidden chains. See the photodiagram on the Orbital Decay page.

Location

Follow the approach for Starstruck. Once on the ledge system from which Starstruck starts, walk east on the ledge, eventually passing under the slightly overhanging bolt lines of Red Gorilla and Nimbus, to a point where the ledge begins to die out and downclimbing would be necessary to continue east (but don't do it; the route starts here). Above this point the first three bolts of Creaking Plank should be readily visible. See the Orbital Decay page for a photodiagram.

Descent: Probably best to rap off the chains, rather than lowering. If you do lower, and the rope is running through the draws, anticipate a very hard pull.

Protection

Eight draws, plus biners for the belay. A small cam or medium size nut may be useful for getting to the first bolt, but the climbing is easy (the exposure, however, is a different matter). Consider using a shoulder-length runner for the third bolt to reduce rope drag later, once above the roof.

Photos

Steven Amter
  5.9
Steven Amter  
  5.9
A really fun route that looks a bit improbable at first. But the moves feel comfortable once you are on it. Aug 3, 2015
John Steiger  
 
There'’s a large horn to sling for the belay for those concerned about it, and like the description says, cams or nuts can protect the moves to the first bolt if really worried. No more bolts are warranted, IMO. Sep 5, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Fun climbing. Needs a belay bolt. Weird finish. Awful belay "ledge" up top. Aug 30, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
 
Yes, it's more fun than Hollow Man, however, it'll never get even close to the traffic of hollowman because hollowman is so easy for groups to lap and TR (creaking plank isnt). There are some awesome moves, but only for three bolts which are followed by face climbing that reminds me of the slips (def not bad). The exposure had me puckered up to the first bolt. If you don't protect it or the belayer and take a fall, you are both going down...way down. May 3, 2013
tenesmus  
 
I'm not gonna lie, the coolest thing about climbing choss is that you have tons of huge holds. The bottom looks like crap but it climbs really well. This is about 50 times more fun than Hollow Man and only 10 more minutes up the trail. If only the crowds knew...

Bring long runners. The upper faces are super cool too. Sep 17, 2012
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Fun route and plenty juggy hence the rating.
As stated, rap to get off as there is a lot of sharp rock up there. And it's easier to bring your 2nd up to the belay. Sep 15, 2012