Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: JS, Brent Manning, Sept. 2008
Page Views: 181 total, 2/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Oct 5, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Old Habits is best identified by a striking right-facing, right-leaning dihedral, beginning just above a roof, high on Strone Crag'’s northwest face. The route crosses the bolt-line of Mad Calf Disease at the roof, but it's cams and nuts all the way unless one of the bolts becomes too much of a temptation.

The best way to reach the dihedral is to climb the first pitch of Cersei. From the belay atop the first pitch of Cersei, rather than stepping right to Cersei'’s bolted arête, move left toward the two-bolt hanging stance of Mad Calf, place a bomber piece of gear an arm’'s reach over the lip of the roof (and consider not clipping into the two bolts to reduce rope drag), then crank over it to get established in the dihedral. An alternative (and original start) to reach the dihedral is to climb what is now posted as the first pitch of Cost of Business, but this likely will put you at a gear-protected small foot stance about 10 feet straight to the right of the two-bolt hanging stance of Mad Calf, which could make for some awkward pulls on your protection once you get established in the dihedral --– hence the recommendation to start on Cersei.

Once established in the crux dihedral, climb it to its end (5.10-), then continue linking features more or less straight-up, keeping Mad Calf'’s bolt-line to your right. Two sets of anchors on top; choose one. The dihedral is a bit “shaley,” but the bad stuff is easily avoided.

Location

Follow the approach for Starstruck. Once on the ledge system, walk east for about 40 feet, to where the trail begins to slope down. Above is a clean-looking buttress with a bolt-protected arête to the right (Tyrion), a thin dihedral/crack in the middle (Cost of Business), and a bolt-protected face leading to broken cracks on the left (Cersei). The original start took the bush-infested corner to the right of Tyrion. If following the recommendation above, start by climbing the first pitch of Cersei (see the Cersei page for a beta photo of the start). See the Starstruck page for descent options.

Protection

Standard trad rack, maybe supplemented by microcams for the section above the crux dihedral. If starting on Cersei’'s first pitch, consider adding brass or steel nuts. If taking the original first pitch (now the first pitch of Cost of Business), consider taking at least one 3.5-4 inch cam for the belay.

Photos

John Steiger  
 
Thanks for the input Sam. I'’ve changed the beta to recommend a new approach pitch to the crux dihedral that should minimize the lateral pull potential mentioned in your post. The potential can be completely eliminated by using an oppositional piece or two at the start of the dihedral if necessary. Jul 30, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The belay, as described in the beta, makes starting the 2nd pitch very awkward with upward and lateral pull potential on your first few pieces in the crux dihedral, as initially you'll be below and far left of your belayer. May 15, 2014