Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: JS, June 2012
Page Views: 808 total · 10/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jun 20, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This excellent short climb would be three stars if it weren'’t for the no-hands rest between the hard parts; well suited to boulderers. Scramble up easy climbing to the first clip, punch it past two more clips, rest, repeat past two more bolts to the chains. See the photodiagram on the Orbital Decay page.

Location

Walk east on the ledge system from which Starstruck begins until two bolted lines on overhanging rock become apparent above, before the ledge begins to peter out (see the photodiagram on the main page for Strone Crag for the approach to the ledge). Red Gorilla is the right line of bolts; Nimbus is the left.

Protection

Five draws, plus two for the chains.

Photos

Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Nice moves with the crux coming around bolt 2. Strange bolt placements. If you whip above bolt 2, you'll swing big; if you whip above bolt 4, you'll break your ankles on that big ledge. Otherwise, go for it! Aug 30, 2013
John Steiger
  5.12a
John Steiger  
  5.12a
Mmm, I've whipped both places and didn't suffer the consequences suggested in the previous post, but I'll do a little re-engineering if a consensus develops. Sep 10, 2013
John Steiger
  5.12a
John Steiger  
  5.12a
Okay Landon, I give. I went back to the route today and you were right. I moved a bolt and added another one. Almost protected as well as a climbing gym route now. Aug 2, 2014