Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dana Houser, Jim Hall and Scott Carson, 1987
Page Views: 518 total · 4/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 17, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Nice thin face climbing on impeccable edges, sidepulls, cracks and slopers.

Location

This is on the face left of the Wealth of Nations dihedral.

Protection

There was a block in the initial dihedral where you could previously place small micro nuts but this is not there now. So I climbed the right side of the dihedral (with bomber nuts or cams) for 10 to 15 feet and then traversed 10 feet left to the first bolt. Then you get another bolt and climb up to a crack which would take a big handsized cam. Then more small nuts or a cam then a rotten fixed pin and finally a rusty 1/4 inch stud bolt. The anchors are slings on a horn with biners.

Photos

John Steiger  
 
Someone replaced the bolts (now all 3/8") and added a bolt to the start (where the block had come off), straightening the line and eliminating the need to stay in the initial left-facing corner (the line no longer has the "weird start" as characterized in the Ruckmans' guide). In my view, this is the standard BCC 11b by which to rate all other quartzite 5.11 slabs. Excellent, challenging route; hat's off to the FA party. Feb 19, 2010
tenesmus
  5.11b
tenesmus  
  5.11b
My bad for not noting the changes we made last summer. Mike White replaced the bolts with ASCA goodness. details. May 19, 2010
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
5.11b
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
5.11b
I thought this route was sweet! Tricky crux moves, some physical moves, some delicate edgy slab, beautiful bomber bolts. All smiles. Aug 20, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
This is still kinda a weird "sport route" despite the new bolts but standard BCC fanfair. The route's new 1st bolt is still 10 feet off the ground, so at least one, but likely 2 gear placements are needed before you'll feel secure to clip the bolt without decking onto the 5th class slab. Then up high, there is still the old piton to clip which requires venturing off the big ledge for a few moves with your last bolt 20 feet below, so bring gear for that section too. Finally, one bolt and a slung horn which lies 3 feet below the bolt offer an anchor. Bottom line: don't leave the ground without a set of cams from red c3 to .5 camalot.

All in all just a pretty weirdly bolted/gear route. Fun climbing though. Jun 14, 2013
John Steiger  
 
The anchors atop Le Rap (and its neighbors) are now bolts with chains, suitable for lowering. Also, a variation of sorts has been added that avoids the fixed pin. At the break (that takes the big handsized cam described in tenesmus' original post), go right and up to a new bolt that protects moves back to the original line. It's probably a tad easier than the original line, but it avoids the big ledge mentioned by Spencer and seems to add a little more climbing. Still should carry a set of cams though, to protect both the moves to the first bolt and the moves to the new bolt. A photo-topo of Le Rap and the variation is on the main Strone Crag page. Aug 28, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Harder than expected. You'll definitely need a few pieces of gear before the first bolt. No gear is had around the fallen block, so you'll have to use the crack out right. I think this warrants a bolt in the vicinity of where the block used to be. Otherwise, a really nice crimpfest. Aug 10, 2014