Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JS, AS, JT, Oct. 2013
Page Views: 965 total · 18/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 5, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This is the best of the 5.12s on Strone, and it vies with Le Rap for the best pitch on the crag. It climbs beautiful rock with superb position. Bolts protect a vertical but cryptic face to a large break and full-body rest, then a gently overhanging headwall to Metolius rap hangers. There is some minor looseness on the vertical face, but the headwall is bullet proof.

To get to the start of the route, scramble past the first three bolts of Firefly and up for another 20 feet or so until possible to traverse left to a large ledge with chains. Keep traversing left (past the bottom of the right-facing dihedral on the first pitch of Mr. Bad Luck) for another 25 feet to a belay bolt that can be supplemented by a No. 1 or 2 Camalot. (5.6) The route awaits above.

Location

Between Red Gorilla to the left and Firefly/Mr. Bad Luck to the right. Descent: Lower/rap from fixed biners back to the belay. Then traverse to the chains passed on the approach pitch and rap to the ground.

Protection

A dozen draws, and maybe a ½ inch cam for Firefly and a hand-size cam to supplement the belay bolt.

Photos

Steve Miller
West Jordan
  5.12b
Steve Miller   West Jordan
  5.12b
Best 12 in BCC!
Starts on a beautiful smooth slab with technical climbing. Crux is moving right on precise feet to a reachy right hand jug.
Awesome rest leads to a total different style of climbing! Overhung on bigger holds.
Each section has it's own crux. Very worthwhile!! Sep 20, 2018
Ryan Arnold  
 
Fun! I definitely didn't stay on the line drawn by John in his photo. Stepping off the right side of the rest ledge, and swerving to the left at the last few bolts, felt like the path of least resistance. Probably more in the 12a range if done that way. There's no easy way through the awesome slabby first half though. Enjoyable route, worth a trip or two up there. Sep 25, 2018
If you’re up at Strone Crag check this climb out. One of the best routes for its grade in the canyon.. Oct 21, 2018