Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: JS, AS, JT, Oct. 2013
Page Views: 2,107 total · 18/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 5, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the best of the 5.12s on Strone, and it vies with Le Rap for the best pitch on the crag. It climbs beautiful rock with superb position. Bolts protect a vertical but cryptic face to a large break and full-body rest, then a gently overhanging headwall to Metolius rap hangers. There is some minor looseness on the vertical face, but the headwall is bullet proof.

To get to the start of the route, scramble past the first three bolts of Firefly and up for another 15 feet or so until possible to traverse left to a large ledge with chains. Keep traversing left (past the bottom of the right-facing dihedral on the first pitch of Mr. Bad Luck) for another 25 feet to a belay bolt that can be supplemented by a No. 1 or 2 Camalot. (5.6) The route awaits above.

Location Suggest change

Between Red Gorilla to the left and Firefly/Mr. Bad Luck to the right. Descent: Lower/rap from fixed biners back to the belay. Then traverse to the chains passed on the approach pitch and rap to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

A dozen draws, and maybe a ½ inch cam for Firefly and a hand-size cam to supplement the belay bolt.

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