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Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Monsters (Unknown) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JS, AS, JT, Oct. 2013
Page Views: 948 total · 18/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 5, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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This is the best of the 5.12s on Strone, and it vies with Le Rap for the best pitch on the crag. It climbs beautiful rock with superb position. Bolts protect a vertical but cryptic face to a large break and full-body rest, then a gently overhanging headwall to Metolius rap hangers. There is some minor looseness on the vertical face, but the headwall is bullet proof.

To get to the start of the route, scramble past the first three bolts of Firefly and up for another 20 feet or so until possible to traverse left to a large ledge with chains. Keep traversing left (past the bottom of the right-facing dihedral on the first pitch of Mr. Bad Luck) for another 25 feet to a belay bolt that can be supplemented by a No. 1 or 2 Camalot. (5.6) The route awaits above.


Between Red Gorilla to the left and Firefly/Mr. Bad Luck to the right. Descent: Lower/rap from fixed biners back to the belay. Then traverse to the chains passed on the approach pitch and rap to the ground.


A dozen draws, and maybe a ½ inch cam for Firefly and a hand-size cam to supplement the belay bolt.


Steve Miller
West Jordan
Steve Miller   West Jordan
Best 12 in BCC!
Starts on a beautiful smooth slab with technical climbing. Crux is moving right on precise feet to a reachy right hand jug.
Awesome rest leads to a total different style of climbing! Overhung on bigger holds.
Each section has it's own crux. Very worthwhile!! Sep 20, 2018
Ryan Arnold  
Fun! I definitely didn't stay on the line drawn by John in his photo. Stepping off the right side of the rest ledge, and swerving to the left at the last few bolts, felt like the path of least resistance. Probably more in the 12a range if done that way. There's no easy way through the awesome slabby first half though. Enjoyable route, worth a trip or two up there. Sep 25, 2018
If you’re up at Strone Crag check this climb out. One of the best routes for its grade in the canyon.. Oct 21, 2018

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