Avg: 2.6 from 14 votes
Routes in Strone Crag
|Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cost of Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, Sept. 2012|
|Page Views:||989 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||John Steiger on Jul 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis fine adventure awaits for any trad team beginning to work through the grades: It has a fair amount of scrambling, but parts have great exposure that rivals that of most other BCC 5.6's and there are enough tricky moves to engage the 5.6 leader. Since Firefly reaches the very top of Strone Crag, it can be used as an alternative (and maybe slightly more difficult) way to start Standard Ridge. Firefly should rise to three stars as more folks do it (yes, this is a bait and switch -- I put three stars on it so it comes up using the three-star search parameter). Expect some looseness, minor but worthy of a helmet.
(1) Face climb past three bolts, staying right on the cleaner rock to broken ledges (this used to be the first pitch of Kiss the Sky, but retrobolted for the 5.6 leader). Scramble up ledges to a face with two more bolts. From the second bolt, diagonal left into a shallow corner on the arête. Climb the shallow corner to a nice crack that gains Brunch Ledge (don't pass up any pro and use runners to reduce drag). Belay from bolt anchors and a hand-size cam about 10 feet right. 125' 5.6.
(2) Traverse left off of Brunch Ledge, using one of the bolt anchors for pro, and climb to another bolt. From here, there are a number of options, all fourth or very easy fifth class. If you're not interested in climbing to the top of Strone or continuing on Standard Ridge, one possibility is to stay as near to the right side of the face as comfortable and climb to the chains on top of Mr. Bad Luck. If interested in continuing to the top, um, continue. 125' (75' if to Mr. Bad Luck's chains) 5.6.
LocationOnce the ledge cutting across Strone's northwest face is gained on the approach, walk east for about 120 feet, well past Starstruck and the bolted lines of Cersei and Tyrion. After the trail slopes down, narrows, and enters a well-shaded area, look for three bolts above. The route starts by standing on a small rock protrusion.
Descent: If descending from the top of Strone Crag, work your way maybe 40 feet to the west to the anchors (there are actually two sets of them) shared by Starstruck, Kiss the Sky, and Mad Calf Disease. See the Starstruck page for the descent options from here. If descending from the Mr. Bad Luck's chains, rap (70', mostly free-hanging) to a break that can be walked to Brunch Ledge, then rap again from the bolt anchors on Brunch Ledge (a 70 meter rope will reach the ground, but shorter ropes will require a third rappel from another rap station about 45 feet off the ground).