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Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, Sept. 2012
Page Views: 989 total, 18/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This fine adventure awaits for any trad team beginning to work through the grades: It has a fair amount of scrambling, but parts have great exposure that rivals that of most other BCC 5.6's and there are enough tricky moves to engage the 5.6 leader. Since Firefly reaches the very top of Strone Crag, it can be used as an alternative (and maybe slightly more difficult) way to start Standard Ridge. Firefly should rise to three stars as more folks do it (yes, this is a bait and switch -- I put three stars on it so it comes up using the three-star search parameter). Expect some looseness, minor but worthy of a helmet.

(1) Face climb past three bolts, staying right on the cleaner rock to broken ledges (this used to be the first pitch of Kiss the Sky, but retrobolted for the 5.6 leader). Scramble up ledges to a face with two more bolts. From the second bolt, diagonal left into a shallow corner on the arête. Climb the shallow corner to a nice crack that gains Brunch Ledge (don't pass up any pro and use runners to reduce drag). Belay from bolt anchors and a hand-size cam about 10 feet right. 125' 5.6.

(2) Traverse left off of Brunch Ledge, using one of the bolt anchors for pro, and climb to another bolt. From here, there are a number of options, all fourth or very easy fifth class. If you're not interested in climbing to the top of Strone or continuing on Standard Ridge, one possibility is to stay as near to the right side of the face as comfortable and climb to the chains on top of Mr. Bad Luck. If interested in continuing to the top, um, continue. 125' (75' if to Mr. Bad Luck's chains) 5.6.

Location

Once the ledge cutting across Strone's northwest face is gained on the approach, walk east for about 120 feet, well past Starstruck and the bolted lines of Cersei and Tyrion. After the trail slopes down, narrows, and enters a well-shaded area, look for three bolts above. The route starts by standing on a small rock protrusion.

Descent: If descending from the top of Strone Crag, work your way maybe 40 feet to the west to the anchors (there are actually two sets of them) shared by Starstruck, Kiss the Sky, and Mad Calf Disease. See the Starstruck page for the descent options from here. If descending from the Mr. Bad Luck'’s chains, rap (70'’, mostly free-hanging) to a break that can be walked to Brunch Ledge, then rap again from the bolt anchors on Brunch Ledge (a 70 meter rope will reach the ground, but shorter ropes will require a third rappel from another rap station about 45 feet off the ground).

Protection

Trad rack, singles of everything from small stoppers to a 2-inch cam, long runners.
Question: I'm just starting to build my own rack. I only have singles of older style camalot sizes .4,.5,.75, doubles of 1 & 2, and a single 3. Just how run out will I be without smaller sizes? What difficulty/length would the run out sections be, more or less? Thanks for any help you can offer! Oct 5, 2017
climberboy
  5.6
climberboy  
  5.6
The description for how to get here is lacking, so I'll add my version. Park by the waterfall going under the main road. From there, take the trail off the right side of the waterfall going toward the challenge wall. Keep taking the right trail when it forks so that you stay moving across the slope instead of up toward the climbing. Eventually the trees will clear out and you'll find yourself in a scree field with the wall high up above you to the left. There will be two rock pile walls that look inviting - do NOT go this way. I went that way and ended up with some class 3/4 scrambling. Instead, continue on the trail and it will curve up and left immediately after the stone walls. Follow the short switchbacks all the way up until you can gain the narrow trail heading back East along the base of all the routes. Should take about 10-15min if you're on the right path.

As for the route itself, I only did the first pitch, but it was really fun. Ended up taking the crack variation to the right instead of the arete out left and it was enjoyable. My only complaint is that the 1st pitch anchors are in a REALLY bad location. I'm 5'10" and I could barely reach them by leaning out over a huge drop off. I don't know why they couldn't have moved them over and down a foot or two... My partner is 5'1" and it would've been extremely difficult for her to set up the rappel on her own. Jun 25, 2017
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The first pitch is great. The second pitch only has one awesome move right off the chains with huge exposure. The rest is 5.easy scrambling with not a lot of options for pro. I had to build an anchor by slinging a huge block. You also can't see the chains at the top of Starstruck while on the ridge. Luckily another party was climbing Starstruck and I could see their helmets pop up about 25 ft below where I built the anchor. The view from the top was worth the climb even if the climbing wasn't great. Jun 27, 2016
zoso
 
zoso  
 
3 stars for the grade. Can't think of many 5.6's in BCC that have this kind of exposure. Only did the 1st pitch, but used micros to #1 camalot. Jul 30, 2015