Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, Sept. 2012
Page Views: 3,154 total · 24/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This fine adventure awaits for any trad team beginning to work through the grades: It has a fair amount of scrambling, but parts have great exposure that rival that of most other BCC 5.6's and there are enough tricky moves to engage the 5.6 leader. Since Firefly reaches the very top of Strone Crag, it can be used as an alternative (and maybe slightly more difficult) way to start Standard Ridge. Firefly should rise to three stars as more folks do it (yes, this is a bait and switch -- I put three stars on it so it comes up using the three-star search parameter). Expect some looseness, minor but worthy of a helmet.

(1) Face climb past three bolts, staying right on the cleaner rock to broken ledges. Scramble up the ledges to a face protected by two more bolts. From the second bolt, traverse left and up onto a smallish ledge under a shallow corner on the arête. Climb the shallow corner to a nice crack that gains Brunch Ledge. Belay from bolt anchors and a hand-size cam about 10 feet right. 125' 5.6.  BTW, the sweet looking thin-hands crack right of the last bolt is part of the first pitch of Kiss the Sky, but its 5.6 too and offers a fine alternative to reaching Brunch Ledge.  

(2) Traverse left off of Brunch Ledge, using one of the bolt anchors for pro, and climb to another bolt. From here, there are a number of options, all fourth or very easy fifth class. If you're not interested in climbing to the top of Strone or continuing on Standard Ridge, one possibility is to stay as near to the right side of the face as comfortable and climb to the chains on top of Mr. Bad Luck. If interested in continuing to the top, um, continue. 125' (75' if to Mr. Bad Luck's chains) 5.6.

Location Suggest change

Once the ledge cutting across Strone's northwest face is gained on the approach, walk east for about 120 feet, well past Starstruck and the bolted lines of Cersei and Tyrion. After the trail slopes down, narrows, and passes through a well-shaded area, look for three bolts above. The route starts by standing on a small dark-colored rock protrusion.

Descent: If descending from the top of Strone Crag, work your way maybe 40 feet to the west to the anchors (there are actually two sets of them) shared by Starstruck, Kiss the Sky, and Mad Calf Disease. See the Starstruck page for the descent options from here. If descending from the Mr. Bad Luck’s chains, rap (70 feet mostly free-hanging) to a break that can be walked to Brunch Ledge, then rap again from the bolt anchors on Brunch Ledge (a 70 meter rope will reach the ground, but shorter ropes will require a third rappel from another rap station about 45 feet off the ground).

Protection Suggest change

Trad rack, singles of everything from small stoppers to a 2-inch cam, long runners.

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