Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, 1987
Page Views: 255 total · 3/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 16, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This line has been re-engineered from that shown in the Ruckmans’ 1998 guide. It originally started right of the obvious offwidth (or "big crack" as described by the Ruckmans) to the left of Major Tom’s arête and climbed past two rusty pins, stepped over the offwidth, and past another rusty pin and two bolts to the top. With Stuart’s permission, three new bolts were added, and the line now starts and stays left of the offwidth. This makes it at least a two-star sport route rather than the no-star route shown in the Ruckmans’ guide. Two of the pins on the original line have been removed, but the third remains for historic value (and because I couldn’t get it out without breaking it).

Location

Approach as for Le Rap et Tap and Wealth of Nations. From the tree at the base of those routes, third or fourth class up the slab above past Major Tom’'s arête until you can get established on a nice but small ledge right of the offwidth; set up a belay from hand-size cams.

Protection

Seven draws. Ends at the chains shared by Major Tom, Le Rap, and Wealth of Nations.

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