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Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: JS, Carson Saviers-Steiger, Sept. 2010. Right: Brent Manning, JS, Sept. 2010
Page Views: 290 total, 3/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Nov 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This good (but short) trad pitch can serve as an alternative first pitch to Starstruck, or, better yet, a quick warm-up before jumping on Starstruck. There are fixed anchors on top that make for a convenient lower back to the base. Begin in a short right-facing dihedral left of Starstruck. Climb 25 or so feet up and right to a ledge. Above is a short roof presenting two options, a crack skirting the roof on its left or a crack in a left-facing dihedral that passes the roof to the right.

Minotaur (5.7+) takes the left crack, past the roof, to a bigger set of roofs. At the roofs, traverse left, just over the lip of the lowest roof, for 15 feet or so until possible to climb straight up steep but juggy face to the anchors. Great position, good rock, and ample protection opportunities.

A variation, Minotaur Right (5.8), takes the dihedral that passes the roof to the right. Once over the roof, step left to a crack (the crack to the right is Starstruck) leading up and over another roof to the anchors. The position on Minotaur Right is not as good as Minotaur, and it could use a bit of scrubbing, so I'’d stick with the latter unless you'’re out to bag all the moderates on Strone.

There are some small oak shoots in the first 20 or so feet of the climb that might need cutting back every once in a while. Consider bringing some small clippers; the next party will be thankful.

Location

Starts 15 left of the first pitch of Starstruck. See Starstruck for the approach and the photodiagram on the main page for Strone Crag. The anchors are rigged for lowering or a rappel.

Protection

Set of wired stoppers (incude brass), set of cams to 2 inches. Two bolts for the belay.

Photos

Mark Kadlec
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8 R
Mark Kadlec   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8 R
I climbed under the roof and around to join, felt like 5.8 with some ok pro. Highly recommend the variation if you like climbing under roofs. May 26, 2012
ted coxworth  
 
For a little something extra, I recommend climbing through the little roof directly below the chains. Don't know about pro because I did it on TR, but fun moves that help get the blood flowing. Maybe 5.9+? Jul 29, 2011