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Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dave Smith, 1970's
Page Views: 1,983 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Jul 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Climb up an easy slab towards the left edge of the roof band. Enter the left-facing corner and enjoy the fun moves. Lieback and stem to conquer the crack and two small roof pulls. There is a small arĂȘte inside the corner that leaves you feeling a little exposed. The climbing eases out at the top, unless you climb out on the face and head for the anchors (not recommended due to hollow-sounding flakes). A great direct start to the Standard Ridge or a good way to get to the Rush Wall.

"One of the best and sandbagged crack lines in BCC." -TP

Location

Climb up from the belay tree over an easy slab to the obvious dihedral. Follow the cracks to the top of the wall and traverse East to the slings. A 60 meter rope is needed to descend to the belay tree.

The start can be hard to find. The best way seems to be to hike west and uphill from Hollowman crossing the talus and wrapping around a bench/ledge system that brings one around the corner into a gully. Spot a small pine tree below a north face and the crack system is behind it. (there usually is some webbing around the tree).

Protection

Medium gear at the bottom. Wide gear for the top. No bolts. There is a fixed pin at the top of Le Rap Et Tap along with slings for the descent, otherwise there are no fixed anchors. I think a rack of doubles up to #2 camalot would be sweet, (1) #3 camalot. Stoppers and hexs would be nice too. Slings.

Photos

Mulch
SLC, Utah
Mulch   SLC, Utah
Which variation is easier, the left crack or right crack? I tried to climb the left crack today and had to bail off of someones cam that was left up there. I'm not the best at finger cracks which is what the crux first roof turns into before the second. May 20, 2017
John Steiger  
 
A better approach to the pine tree at the base of this and Le Rap is to cut across the ledge system from Starstruck (see that route for the lower part of the approach). As you work left (east) along the ledge, in the vicinity of Creaking Plank, there is a short third class section dropping down maybe 15 feet and climbing 15 feet back up to the break, but it is pretty casual. Also, the anchors atop Le Rap are now bolts with chains. A photo-topo of the route is on the main Strone Crag page. Jun 3, 2012
I remember approaching this with a bit of hubris. How hard could a 5.8 actually be?
Just getting to the start was a bit of a pain. We tried the left side of the block and I admit it was hard! I agree that this sucker is sandbagged. Aug 1, 2010
Crux is more of a ringlock size crack through the roof as opposed to a "hand-crack" which is what the book calls it.

Fun, but as stated earlier... short, like most of the rest of the moves on the Standard Ridge route. Aug 6, 2009
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
 
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This really is a great climb, well worth doing, with fantastic poisition and air in that section of the canyon.

We set up a hanging belay to the left of the tree as it was a more comfortable belay and provided a straighter line for the rope.

On the rap, we did two raps to a loose ledge...that heads off back towards Challenge Buttress instead of scrambling down the ledges towards Narcolepsy.

There is still a ton of rock up there!!!

Rap et tap tap or whatever looks fricking hard!!! Sep 15, 2006