Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft|
|FA:||JS, Allen Sanderson, Oct. 2013|
|Page Views:||181 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||John Steiger on Jul 31, 2014|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis mischievous little line is somewhat discontinuous, but the climbing is entertaining and the crux involves titillating moves over an overhang that is more reasonable than it looks. Start up a blunt arête protected by four bolts to a ledge (a microcam or two may be useful above the fourth bolt). Figure out how to safely clip the bolt above, then climb up zigging left then right past more bolts to the crux overhang. Thrutch through the overhang and work up and left past more bolts (some gear too) to a ledge with chain anchors. This is where Tyrion ends, but more climbing can be had by stepping left and joining Mad Calf (maybe 5.9 to the top of the crag) or stepping right and climbing the last pitch of Starstruck (5.7).
LocationFollow the approach for Starstruck. Once on the ledge system, walk east for about 40 feet, to where the trail begins to slope down. Immediately above is a clean-looking buttress with a thin dihedral/crack system in the middle (the first pitch of Cost of Business) and Tryion's bolt-protected arête to the right. See the Cersei page for a beta photo of the start. Descent: Two raps, both from chain anchors, gets you down from the ledge marking the end of Tyrion. If you have a 70 meter rope, you can avoid the second rappel, but the rope will barely reach so beware.
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