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Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: JS, Allen Sanderson, Oct. 2013
Page Views: 181 total · 4/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 31, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This mischievous little line is somewhat discontinuous, but the climbing is entertaining and the crux involves titillating moves over an overhang that is more reasonable than it looks. Start up a blunt arête protected by four bolts to a ledge (a microcam or two may be useful above the fourth bolt). Figure out how to safely clip the bolt above, then climb up zigging left then right past more bolts to the crux overhang. Thrutch through the overhang and work up and left past more bolts (some gear too) to a ledge with chain anchors. This is where Tyrion ends, but more climbing can be had by stepping left and joining Mad Calf (maybe 5.9 to the top of the crag) or stepping right and climbing the last pitch of Starstruck (5.7).

Location

Follow the approach for Starstruck. Once on the ledge system, walk east for about 40 feet, to where the trail begins to slope down. Immediately above is a clean-looking buttress with a thin dihedral/crack system in the middle (the first pitch of Cost of Business) and Tryion's bolt-protected arête to the right. See the Cersei page for a beta photo of the start. Descent: Two raps, both from chain anchors, gets you down from the ledge marking the end of Tyrion. If you have a 70 meter rope, you can avoid the second rappel, but the rope will barely reach so beware.

Protection

A set of cams from ¼ inch to 1 ½ inch, draws, and a few shoulder-length runners.

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Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Decent. I only placed one cam above the fourth bolt, and it was on easy terrain. I just felt obligated given the route description. If you are comfortable at the grade, don't bother bringing any gear; The bolts are spacey (not as in Kevin), but nowhere are you climbing hard way above your last protection. Rope drag is a bitch above the roof since you climb out the roof to the right and the route breaks hard left after the roof. Slinging the crux bolt long might mitigate this, but I don't recommend it. Do the route, look down at the crux, and you'll see why. Aug 10, 2014